Almanac Music: Col’s USA Trip – Austin, Texas

Austin – Texas

 

After a fabulous time in Fredericksburg and Luckenbach Brian and I hit the road for Austin.

 

One of the magnificent old buildings in Gruene

 

 

Old shop in the village

 

We drove the scenic route to Austin via Gruene, a pretty, historical village which is a popular tourist destination.

 

Some shade in Gruene

 

The bar also a cool place to be

 

It was a very hot and crowded there. Stopping for a quick look, and desperately seeking a cool drink, we were thankful for plenty of large shady trees for relief from the heat, but we nearly got caught out by our cool drink. As the case with many US  drinks there’s  alcohol in them, and you need to be careful with  your order. A nice icy, slurpy and refreshing looking drink stopped me in my tracks when asked to pay U$12 (A$18) made me realise it wasn’t the non-alcoholic drink I was after! Sorted it out though.

 

The Gruene Hall, oldest dance hall in Texas

 

Inside Gruene Hall

 

There is a large old wooden hall, Gruene Hall, the oldest dance hall in Texas, that is utilised as a concert venue with acts such as Steve Earle performing there. The wooden windows when opened, hopefully, let in a cooling breeze while the audience enjoy the performance sitting on benches. A lot of character in the building!

 

 

Austin skyline, one of America’s fastest growing cities

 

 

 

 

Arriving in Austin early afternoon before our hotel check in time provided the opportunity for a quick visit to two of the cultural institutions of the city – Book People, a fabulous bookshop with an extensive range of books in all categories; and, Waterloo Records, the premier music shop in Texas.

 

After a quick look and  earmarking future purchases for our return we  headed to our hotel. You can imagine our shock when told all reservations were cancelled, apparently due to staff shortages. This was totally unexpected at 5pm after a long, hot day. The alternative hotel we were directed to turned out to be a real dive which we quickly cancelled. We later found much better accommodation but further away from South Congress, the hub of Austin,  where we planned to be.

 

Outside the Continental Club on South Congress

 

 

James McMurtry setting up

 

James McMurtry and Band

 

 

Austin is one of the great music cities of the USA with many fine venues and clubs to listen to  the  magnificent music of this great city. One is the Continental Club. Here we were fortunate to see James McMurtry and Band play. A smallish, vibrant venue oozing with atmosphere you are close enough to watch the band from wherever you sit. And of course there are obligatory two-steppers out in force.  McMurtry, with his often dark and cynical songs, was as we expected him to be, sensational – and all for ten bucks!

 

The Saxon Pub

 

The Resentments at the Saxon Pub

 

Jimmie Rhodes and Friends at the Saxon Pub

 

The other venue is the Saxon Pub, an intimate space set up for music and listening. In these small clubs you  see and hear legends of the music world play in relaxed and convivial surroundings often in different band configurations over different nights.  The Resentments and Kimmie Rhodes and Friends (including the great Marcia Ball) played on the two nights we attended, and both acts did not let us down. As I’ve mentioned many times during the trip the sound quality was excellent; crisp and clear and a delight to the ears.

 

 

Austin is well served with Mexican restaurants and cafes with all providing excellent fare. Guero’s Taco Bar and Maudie’s Tex-Mex were both favourites with Brian and myself.

 

Jo’s

 

South Congress is the central area for cafes, coffee, clubs, music, shopping, and for tourists. As it was very hot during our time there, Jo’s with its shade and open space was an ideal spot to escape from the heat with a coffee or a cool drink and a snack to relax and while away the time.

 

Check out the wheel’s of this car cruising on South Congress

 

The heat was also an excuse to spend more time at Book People. With an in store coffee shop it was a pleasure to sit back, sip coffee, and check out your intended purchases. Bought far too many books there!

 

Unfortunately our time in Austin was limited but fulfilling and captivating.

 

All Photographs taken and provided by CGR

 

 

More from Col Ritchie can be read Here

 

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