Almanac Life: Ditchley Park

 

Ditchley Park

 

Beech Forest is a dead-end town up on the Otway Ranges ridge. Cold, lost in fog, beyond it lies a winding track into the rainforest, or another that cuts down into an enormous plantation valley – a never-ending labyrinth of pine coups, bluegums and waterfalls.

 

   The township was once the final stop of the steam-powered railway that ran up the gully lips and spurs, carrying the logs and their industry. The railway’s now gone, that way of life now gone. As are, in my time; the school, post office, police station, fuel bowsers. New Years just gone, the hollowed-out pub was the last to fall.

 

   I adored Friday knock off in the Beechy Hotel, a ripper fire for all us blackened, wet bush-working bastards, cold beers, fried nibblies. Locals, talking local, being local. Dogs coming and going, a few kids running wild. It was our heart, once a week. Where we pumped blood and air into a place of dirt and hard skies.

 

   The far wall was filled with fading photos of good times. Loggers frocking up, Louis fallen off his stool, smiling, a band playing, Gee with his yabbie haul, but mostly old news clippings. They were tattered and worn, yet in them was where Beech Forest was, to me, most alive. A few footy ones, even though the team hand long since merged with five others, shifting down off the ridge to Gellibrand. But, mostly, cricket. Green and gold caps, proud men and boys, plucked from remote dairy farms and coupes and the one remaining school, 25 kms away.

 

   I was always all football, all year round, but cricket and the pub kept us together, I believe.

 

   The oval, Ditchley Park, was a thing of gold. You turned off the ridge track, winding down to its edge, where a flat green surface lay beneath a wall of cypris trees and backed onto a view of the entire world.

 

   It felt like nowhere, in the most glorious way. Caught snow in winter, had crisp, snappy air that spread out and into the farming plains miles below. Mostly though, it carried ghosts. A small slope on the far side where for or five cars could park and watch, and before that, horse and carts. Undoubtably the Bay 13 of its time. The people; men, women, children of the land.

 

   For years, it hung on. The cricket club hung on, mostly thanks to people like Rory Harrington.

 

*****

 

   The luckiest people, anywhere in the world, are those that find a passion early, or had a passion find them. There’s no wasted energy, no frustration, no being idle. There’s a direction, work ethic, no matter what that passion is. Hunger peppered with victories.

 

   As a kid from down the Johanna valley on the coast, Rory lived and breathed local community and sport. At school, while other kids played, he’d be in the records closet, looking up old cricket scores from decades before, noting somebody’s dad got 32 that day. And that blow-through spud farmer who spent a season playing in the thirds, took 3 for 12.

 

  As a man, he marshaled that club, kept it alive through force of will, the oval alive. It was a thing to be admired.

 

   The whole community would be marshalled to get out the rollers, mow the outfield. Doug Halifax, from down Amiets Track, built a small sandstone and wood clubrooms. Tiny and superb. Enough room for eleven people to get changed in. A timekeeper’s window and a few cramped beers upstairs.

 

   Rory and others would maintain the nets, picket fencing. In winter, sheep would keep the grass down. On nights it was too wild and stormy up there, the team would meet across the ridge, in the school gym along its spine.

 

   It was the old world, it was still wonderfully alive. I hated cricket, but knew its importance all the same.

 

   Rory would work the phones, the paddocks, find the numbers. While one grade played at Ditchley, the other two would be down the hill somewhere, at other ovals that were once footy grounds, all but forgotten, maintained for cricket, keeping the country, its people and memories oiled.

 

   Cricket grounds all across the land.

 

   Rory is a fine man, a dairy farmer of few words, but make no mistake, has passion to burn.

 

   In the footy off season, I often worked in the bush on Saturdays. It was great to run into the cricket team up at the pub, laughing, drinking, creating enough noise to get other locals in, who would also laugh and drink. The feeling was gold.

 

   Eventually, work and kids took Rory Harrington out of the district. Our loss, another town’s gain. I’m sure he’s giving that town his work ethic – in the dairy shed, at his son’s football and cricket. Contributing in ways.

 

   Sometimes, it’s amazing how thin a thread is. One person can be a driving force to keep something alive. Something that gives to everyone, directly or otherwise. And from there one day turn things around. I’ve seen footy clubs survive when everybody is burnt out, on the force of will of just one or two people, later to bloom into strong seniors, reserves, three grades of juniors, six of netball. Cars everywhere, kids everywhere. Grow from being something tired into a home, their own MCG.

 

   Sometimes, the thread snaps.

 

   I don’t know if Rory left and the Otway Cricket Club folded, or the other way around, but both are gone.

 

   Five years later, the pub shut down. It had been a lifestyle for a long time, through three or four lease owners. There simply weren’t enough of us to make a profit off anymore. But if a licensee loved the pub, and the rough and tumble people of the land, and the easy pace of that small smoker’s deck, everything was fine.

 

   It bothers me greatly, driving up out of the valley plantations on a Friday dusk, tired and sore and seeing it shut. It bothers the community in me. It must be a good 40 kms away from our home, but the family would meet me there. I’d meet everybody there. My Fridays have been lost since it’s gone.

 

   The last shop to fall.

 

   But people make a land. And passion and work ethic go hand in hand. Andy Zappelli, from down one of the backtracks, and a few others, decided to not take it lying down.

 

   “The old cricket rooms are still standing, aren’t they?”

 

   I worked last Friday through rain that lasted the whole day. Wet, muddy, miserable, the ute took me through Beech Forest, past the pub, that its owner still cranks up the fire in one day a week, turns on the stoves, bleeds the lines, in hope of a buyer. Keeps it on life support. But nobody with money bites.
There he was, on his ride-on mower, shoulders hunched in the wet. Oiling the machine.

 

 

 

 

   I then turned left as the ute pushed through, down to Ditchley Park. There was that beautiful, moss-covered entrance, between cypris trees. A tunnel to those sandstone rooms, that view. Five or six utes. Gav Turner and Tim and Clivo and a handful of others, lazily sitting under the awning, on oval’s edge, around a small oil drum fire. Sharing a beers and lazy small talk and piss take. Sheltered, not one foot away from the rain, while the ghosts of old footy matches in snow, and cricket in summer’s heat, played behind them.

 

   I walked up, a wet rat, chainsaw chaps still on.

 

   “Well, you look likely!” they chuckled.
And we talked local talk and laughed heaps – knowing, easy laughs. It was glorious.

 

   “Are we going to sell raffle tickets?” I asked. Code for getting around having no alcohol license. You buy a raffle ticket and swap it for a beer. I’d seen it in townless districts in southern Tassie. Small, rundown weatherboard shacks in the middle of paddocks, come Friday, utes parked every-bloody-where! Costs covered, not a cent more.

 

   “Nah,” old Bob said. “Keep it simple. Bring your own.”

 

   Clivo offered me another of his beers. I went into the rooms that felt only 20ft wide. No power, but the bird nests hand gone, the dust and webs removed. The fridges, left over from what looked like WWII, were a bit rusted, and not on, but still kept everybody’s beer cold.

 

   As I walked back out into the fading light, the doorway and balcony framed a perfect picture of a group of aging men around a potbelly, framed in turn by a fading day. An oval, with the sheep kicked off, tidy, waiting.

 

   “You watch,” one of them was saying. “If the pub doesn’t open again, this place will be packed in summer.”

 

   To which everybody agreed enough to not even bother to reply.

 

   I looked at that moment, burning it into my ribcage. Took a photo for Rory, to show him dreams don’t die.

 

 

 

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Comments

  1. Colin Ritchie says

    Spot on Matt! Cracking read!
    Sadly so many small communities have gone through or are going through similar circumstances to Beech Forest..
    Had a beer or two at the Beechy Pub over 50 years or so, and even scored a few runs on the cricket ground!

  2. Lisa Williamson says

    This is awesome Matt, miss the beachy and all the legends up there ??

  3. eddie page page says

    Having spent 8 years as a forest officer ,coach of the Otway Rovers footy team for 4 years ,and also took part in reforming the cricket team in the late 60s early70s ..It was a fantastic community ,one in which i was so glad to have experienced ….My life was certainly enriched by the friends we gained and the evolvement in the area …Great memories …This year i met with Rory Harrington for the first time when he organised a return get together of of the current Otway district team to wear the green and gold colours of the old Otway team ..The town has certainly deteriorated as far as a townhip goes ,but i’m sure the spirit of the old timers still remains ..A great story ,which recalls fantastic memories of great times in a semi remote community…Eddie Page ..

  4. Jeanette Biddle says

    My mother Dorothy Congram grew up in Beech Forest on the family farm, Beech Forest was a thriving community.
    We used to travel up from the Bay for Balls and Dances and in 1967 I was Miss Otway Football Club.
    It is.sad to see the end of such strong communities but no phones no computers so we had to entertain ourselves and form voluntary Clubs and Groups which thrived.
    Lovely happy memories Matt

  5. Neil Saunderson says

    Thanks for the read Matt.
    My wife used to work locums at Apollo Bay and a visit to the Califorinan Redwoods on the Aire River (my only sighting of a platypus in the wild there) and whiling away an afternoon at The Beechy Pub with my son and dad was always on the cards.
    I haven’t been to the area in about 6 years so it’s sad news to hear the Beechy Pub is no longer. The locals and bar staff were always friendly to out-of-towners.

  6. Thank you all. Hi Jeanette!! xo

    Good on ya Eddie. Was a cracking day!

  7. Brendan Corbett says

    Nice work old dog.
    It’s always a blast seeing your musing around that great area that changed so much of my formative years in such a short time.
    I still remember days playing there with all the cricket lads in the year before you took all of us (minus me because my family decided to move away, still a massive regret for me) to a junior premiership down the road at Gellibrand.
    The Cricket Club was something I still reminisce on frequently with the amazing characters that used to be there.

    Hope life is giving you all you deserve mate. I doubt

  8. Corby! So good to hear from you again, Ol’ China! I’m sure you’ve turned every place you ended up in into an adventure, magte. Hope you and your brother, and family, are kicking goals!

  9. Great read Matt I’ve got great memories of nights at the beachy pub all characters playing cricket at ditch’s and of course running around the gellie ovel with you and Rory regards fisherman

  10. Like reading the lyrics to a Neil Young ballad this. Wonderfully melancholy old dog.

    Sad when these old places go. Where do all the souls of the conversations go? I think walls and floors, timber ones, can talk.

    Great Saturday morning read.

    Cheers.

  11. When a town loses its pub, it loses much of its soul.

    I loved having a beer or whiskey in the Beechy pub, and the occasional toasted sanga. I pray that someone takes it on.
    Thanks, old dog

  12. Magnificently wistful, Matt.
    “To which everybody agreed enough to not even bother to reply.” That one line says so much about human communication.
    And the Lorne Dolphins are in the Grand Final. Go Dollys.

    And, just quietly, Kenny from Camperdown has gone mad. Lucky he didn’t start an all-in blue and get half a dozen of his players suspended for the Prelim.

  13. Yeah, AJC, no idea how. What a comeback! Good on ’em.

  14. Chris Bracher says

    Fabulous Matt.
    My brother-in-law bought and partially renovated the old Beech Forest infant welfare centre some years ago. We’d stay occasionally;notably one Anzac Day weekend when we witnessed the memorable (but mini) Anzac Day march that terminated at the Old Shire Office. The community spirit was hanging on, but it seemed that the end was nigh.
    Long may the Ditchley Park crew prosper.

  15. Malcolm Rulebook Ashwood says

    Old Dog it’s bloody sad re country towns diminishing and sporting clubs and pubs closing the mental health outcomes ( crisis ) re folk in the country is generally a follow on – great read thank you

  16. Thanks Matt, for your sad and beautiful reflection of community. Reading people’s comments, your reflections of Ditchley Park, Beech Forest, the Otway Ranges, pubs, clubs, sporting grounds and how we gather has hit our hearts hard. Without being soppy, when our old man passed away at 59 (my first direct experience of deep loss) it took me a little while but I came to realise that our loved ones don’t pass away. They are part of our lives, our journeys, our laughs and tears and tomorrows. People like Doug and Rory are wonderful and they are everywhere, all over the world. As are you and the ageing men around the potbelly sharing a beer and an abiding belief in community. I raise my glass.

  17. I taught for 4 years at Lavers Hill Consolidated in the early 80’s and rented a farm house on Phillip’s Track. I was conscripted into the cricket team to make up the 11! Monty (Robert Montgomery) was another teacher at the school and he was one of the drivers of the cricket club along with his medium pacers and middle order batting. He also provided occasional entertainment with his guitar and singing at cricket gatherings at the Beechy Hotel. The local policeman (Andy) was our fast opening bowler, farmer Doug Parker was wicketkeeper, Lloyd French the Forrestry worker was a talented batsman ( he was recruited by Richmond from Tassie and came over about the same time as Royce). Neville Flanagan (the local electrician) was a team member as where other locals whose names I can’t recall. I’m sure there was a Harrington somewhere amongst them. Another teacher — Malcolm Pollitt was a handy batsman and medium pacer. Our arch enemy was Deans Marsh and we always dug a little deeper when we came up against them! Many sessions were held after training and home games at the Beech Forest Hotel. The publican at the time was a woman whose name escapes me. We played most of our games on the Lavers Hill School oval as the Beech Forest ground at Ditchley Park had no one to take care of it. A few years later it was ressurected after I transferred to a school in Colac.

  18. Have heard a rumour that the Otway Otters could be brought back in the not too distant future old dog.
    What a sight Ditchley Park in full flight would be!

  19. Magnificent sentiments Rick Kane! Thank you.
    And thank you all.

    Let some of us stand to tides
    and say the same,
    lest all things change
    and fade away.

  20. Luke Reynolds says

    Great piece Matt. What a beautiful place Beech Forest is, sad to hear of the demise of the pub. I’d love to play a game at Ditchley Park one day.

    Always frustrates me that the Melbourne urban sprawl continues to expand with new suburbs miles and miles out of the city while many great rural towns with beautiful pubs and historic ovals continue to decline.

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