The Long and Winding Ride: Episode 16 – Edi to Cheshunt: Keep pedalling up the King

The Long and Winding Ride

 

 

Episode 16 Edi to Cheshunt: Keep pedalling up the King

 

 

All good things must come to an end. In stage 16 we complete our pleasurable pedal up the King Valley to reach our final destination – Cheshunt. Never venturing too far from the King River, our cycle route takes us past lush vineyards, over river crossings, through small villages and places to stop and delve into some chapters in the history of the valley and its people.

 

More serious cyclists can branch off on one of the many loop tracks either side of the King River for greater adventure. Along the way we will call in for some customary King Valley food, and enjoy a pub stop, before visiting the home of the King Valley United Football Club at Whitfield. 

 

The King River has a history of severe and continuous flooding. The most damaging flood events occurred in 1917, 1939, 1974, 1993, 1998, 2010 and 2023. Floods happen anywhere along the catchment from Cheshunt all the way to the lower King Valley at Wangaratta. The 1993 floods were considered to have been the most devastating when more than 500 homes were affected. Roads, bridges, sewerage and water infrastructure, livestock, crops and rural fencing all suffered major impacts from the floods. 

 

Lunch stop

 

The King Valley has become synonymous with gnocchi. We can’t pass up the chance to enjoy the classic Italian dish with a matching Italian red. I’m sure the Pizzini family can help us out.

 

Whitfield

 

Welcome to Whitfield, a popular tourist destination in the King Valley. No longer is Whitfield a sleepy settlement serving dairy farmers, graziers and tobacco growers. Wine, and food, together with adventure activities such as white water kayaking, mountain bike riding, fishing and bushwalking increasingly draw visitors from afar.

 

A Footy Almanac pub aficionado has recommended we pay a visit to the Mountain View hotel at Whitfield. Here we go Smokie!

 

(Source: Mountain View Hotel on Facebook)

 

After World War II many European immigrants (especially Italian, Yugoslav and Spanish) settled in the King Valley and grew tobacco. Since the 1980s, many of the tobacco farms have been converted into vineyards. In episode 15 we heard of Otto Dal Zotto, the pioneer of Prosecco in Australia, but there have been others who have shaped the viticultural life of the valley. Alfredo and Katrina Pizzini (at Whitfield), Gino and Carmel Corsini of La Cantina (at King Valley) and Salvatore Politini (at Cheshunt) have added their traditional touches. Without those pioneers, and others, we may not have the Italian varietal wines which give the King Valley such a special place on the Australian winemaking landscape.

 

Whitfield Recreation Reserve (Google maps)

 

 

Wine will have to wait, for we are here to visit the King Valley United Football Club. It had its roots not only in the successful Whitfield club but also in other clubs in the King Valley Association. When the association folded in 1935 many of the remaining players from clubs in the league got together to establish the King Valley United Football Club (the ‘Roos), which was accepted into the Ovens and King League. 

 

 

Whitfield premiers King Valley Association 1922

(source: Lost King Valley on Facebook)

 

The ‘Roos had to wait until 1957 before making a grand final appearance and a further 13 years before the club won its maiden O&KFL flag, in a comprehensive victory over Milawa. In 1981 the club claimed its second premiership, but in the 44 years since, King Valley have endured an agonizingly long premiership drought. The netballers have had a little more joy however, winning premierships in 2015 and 2016.

 

From King Valley to Glenferrie Oval

 

Norm Bussell played with King Valley in 1960 and ‘61 before heading to Wangaratta to join the Rovers under the coaching of Bob Rose. Collingwood took notice of the no nonsense defender but were unable to entice Bussell to Victoria Park. Two premierships later he was again on the radar of VFL clubs. In 1968 Hawthorn swooped and found a spot for Bussell in their backline, where he played a key role in the club’s 1971 premiership. After 114 games with the Hawks, Norm returned to Wangaratta Rovers in 1974 where he was part of another two premierships, before moving out to Whorouly for further success. Bussell was inducted into the Ovens and King League Hall of Fame in 2011 and the Ovens and Murray Football Netball League Hall of Fame in 2017.

 

From King valley to Princes Park

 

King Valley produced another footballer who played over 100 games in Melbourne. Ruckman Mark Porter was a rising star in the Ovens and King League in the early 1990s, taking out the league’s Baker Medal in 1994. He joined Coburg in the VFA before Carlton added him to their rookie list in 1997. Porter played 55 games for the Blues as their second ruckman. He was traded to North Melbourne in 2002 where he made a further 55 AFL appearances. 

 

Whitfield once held an annual Boxing Day sports carnival that attracted athletes and sports-minded folk from far afield. The premier event on the program was the Men’s Sheffield Handicap – a foot race over the distance of 130 yards. But other events were popular, including wood chopping, cycling and children’s races. Proceeds of the day went to developing the recreation reserve. 

 

Cheshunt

 

Half an hour after leaving Whitfield we arrive at our final destination – Cheshunt in the upper King Valley. The small village of Cheshunt is the gateway to the Alpine National Park, which lies to the south.

 

Before settling in at Cheshunt, there is an opportunity to take a short excursion along the Upper King River Road to a lookout perched high above the King Valley. The lookout was the eyrie of bushranger Harry Power (an alias of the Irish-born convict Henry Johnson) who mentored 13 year old Ned Kelly. In 1869 Power escaped from Pentridge Gaol and became one of the most notorious bushrangers in north east Victoria, ranging between Mansield and Beechworth, robbing travellers and mail coaches. Power was an acquaintance of relatives of the Kelly’s, the Lloyds and Quinns. Ironically, it was Ned Kelly’s uncle, James Quinn, who informed the police of Harry Power’s hideout, which led to his arrest and the end of his highway robbery days.

 

Back at the village of Cheshunt we seek a memorial site which no visitor should miss. The World War II nursing service and bravery of two nurses from Cheshunt is commemorated at a tree monument site beside the Cheshunt Hall. Nurses Caroline Ennis (originally from Swan Hill) and Dorothy ‘Bud’ Elmes (from Cheshunt) were stationed in Singapore in 1942. Sister Ennis died as a result of the bombing of the evacuation vessel, the Vyner Brooke, while Sister Elmes was massacred by the Japanese on Bangka Island. Both nurses previously worked at Wangaratta Hospital. 

 

The Rutherglen Sun reported on the death of Nurse Elmes in September 1945:

 

Of the 21 nurses who were massacred on Bangka Island in 1942, news of which has just been released, was sister D.G.H. Elmes of Cheshunt. The nurses were being evacuated from Singapore, and after their ship was torpedoed the survivors were taken prisoner. Sister Eva (sic) Bullwinkel, who, though wounded, miraculously survived the massacre, said: … “ We all knew we were going to die …  We stood waiting. There were no protests. Their marvellous courage prevented me from calling out when I was hit … I couldn’t let them down.” Thus she paid tribute to the memory of her friends. Sister Elmes was a daughter of Mr and Mrs R. M. Elmes of Cheshunt and trained at Corowa Hospital, and after joining the Army left Australia for Singapore in February 1941. (Rutherglen Sun, 21 September 1945)

 

Poignantly, it has since been revealed that the nurses massacred on Bangka Island were also subjected to torture and rape. The censored information about what actually happened to the nurses on Bangka Island was uncovered by a military historian who worked alongside Melbourne writer Georgina Banks. Georgina’s great aunt was Sister Elmes. 

 

Football was once played at Cheshunt. The Cheshunt Football Club joined the King Valley FA in 1920 and were regular participants until the association folded in 1934. In 1931 and 1932 Cheshunt won back-to back-premierships. After 1934, Cheshunt footballers joined in with players from other local clubs to form the King Valley United Football Club.

 

After 16 stages our long and winding ride has reached the conclusion. We started our tour at the gateway to the Victorian Alps in the upper reaches of the Ovens Valley and now finish at an equivalent location in the King Valley. 

 

The final episode in the series is the epilogue next Wednesday, when we will reflect on the highlights of our journey.

 

 

More from Peter Clark can be read Here.

 

 

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