
It’s a snaking and often demanding ribbon of tar from Glenelg to Goolwa along and across the Hills and between the vines until the great arc of the Southern Ocean appears like a pale blue relief.
It was supposed to pour down but instead just spat with appalled apathy on my Korean car’s bonnet. I’ve the best part of three days overlooking Knight’s Beach to think and read and write, for which I’m enormously grateful.
My now annual writing retreat is largely predicated on nostalgia and other investigations of the past, so exiting the Southern Expressway and ignoring the radio I push in a CD on my old-school car stereo. The Eagles accompany me on my trip down to the gushing, green Fleurieu. Although my tiny brain is prejudiced happily to the past, I reckon they stand up well. It’d be easy to mock them as symbols of 70’s American excess but the songs and the musicianship are peerless. Eagles Live was enormous in my youth, and it might’ve had the be-jesus overdubbed out of it, but ‘Seven Bridges Road’ and its climbing harmonies still arrest me. They could certainly sing.
But I need to open my holiday with a sausage roll, as one should.
The Goolwa Bakery is located on a side street, and I was instantly smitten by the cosy interior. Some modern bakeries tend towards supermarket dimensions, to their consequent detriment. The atmosphere was also buoyed by a fishbowl in TV, sitting on a table near the door, as it always is in a rural baked goods emporium.

Ordering my $5 sausage roll my thoughts meandered towards Pulp Fiction’s Mia Wallace and her famous $5 shake, a house speciality at Jack Rabbit Slim’s. Initially expressing disbelief Vincent Vega then takes an inappropriate sip and exclaims that it’s a ‘pretty expletive good milkshake!’
And so it was with my sausage roll.
Claiming a chair on the early afternoon footpath and withdrawing (careful now) the lunch from its brown bag it appeared as a freshly busted hunk of axe handle in both girth and approximation. My first bite met with peppery whiffs and pleasantry. There was flaky, tasty pastry and it wasn’t sweaty which the medically alert among you will know is the biggest killer of over 53’s in this antipodean country.
Looking about my environs I note that the bakery shares premises with the Goolwa Health Centre and hope that all the kiddies reading now grasp the attendant irony.
The woman serving the baked grub was effervescent if somewhat resigned; I wondered about her life but not for long.

Munching on I was acutely aware of my enormous privilege as I was soon to drive to my beach accommodation. I’d be on a balcony with long, glorious hours in front of me. Five quick minutes later I’d finished my lunch, and pointed my motor west.
The Goolwa Bakery is over a century old. They know how to craft a sausage roll.
I’m unsure but they might even serve them (sauce if required) with ‘pink champagne on ice’ in the Hotel California.
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About Mickey Randall
Now whip it into shape/ Shape it up, get straight/ Go forward, move ahead/ Try to detect it, it's not too late/ To whip it, whip it good
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Very good bakery with excellent tucker. Tried several others in the village and nearby when working on the south coast some years ago, always came back here. Goolwa is a great spot with the best of river and sea, could happily live there, except for grand-daughters in Adelaide….
I should eat them without sauce, but can’t. What is it in a SR that you are actually looking for Mickey. Something specific or general enjoyment? Sounds like you were on your own this time around.
Bucko- I reckon Goolwa’s a fun place with a bit of an edge to it. Think it far more interesting than Victor but if I was to live down there Port Elliot would get my vote (funds permitting)!
Daryl- good question! I reckon a sausage roll should be a decent size; be inviting but not sweaty of pastry; and possess a slightly spicy flavour. No sauce for me! I had a few days to myself and Claire came down Friday night. Had a beer at the new Port Elliot Surf Club and then went to the Flying Fish and both were excellent.
Well done Mikey. Just sounds superb.
I am thinking that at some stage you need to produce a Top 10, Mickey.
Thanks Smokie. Reckon that’s a good challenge. While I accept that a list is a cheap way of assembling an article it does have appeal.
Hope everyone enjoys today’s FA lunch. Every year I say it, but I will get there! It’s surely the WS Cox Plate of lunches.
I like the sound of a writing retreat. Is that a tax deduction for Almanac writers?
Luke – if only it were tax deductible a quick and incomplete list of expenses for my retreat would include: a bag of mandarins, vanilla coffee, three (daily) pints at the Royal Family pub (attendant irony there given HRH passed while I was on retreat), a sausage roll, a chicken schnitzel and one apricot slice. Dips could run his eye over this lot once he surfaces late October.