Almanac Travel (and footy tips): Sal’s Travel Diary 2024 – Greetings from France

Greetings from France,

 

Day 7

 

No event to attend so Susannah and I dumped the young and were ticking the box heading up the Eiffel Tower.  You stand under the tower to fully appreciate is majesty!  Our tour guide Mohsina was from India but had clearly embraced Paris and had all sorts of anecdotes about the history of the tower.  Made taking the tour worth the extra spent.  Needless to say Gustav Eiffel was a clever visionary!  At first the Parisiennes did not want the tower it did not fit into their architecture or style, that all changed within 2 years of opening attracting over 2m visitors from around the world.

 

 

The first elevator took us to the second level, just that trip had some palpitations as we reached 120m.  The views across Paris were astonishing, in the distance we could see the towers of the financial district also completely against the local style and architecture.  We learnt they are not technically in Paris. Off in the distance stood Montmartre Hill with Sacre Coeur at its peak.

 

We then prepared for the lift to the The Summit of the Eiffel Tower, Paris, France, once you reach 120m the next 160m is a breeze up to 280m.  With the latest antenna addition the tower is 330m above ground level.  The obligatory pics and back down to the first level.  Plenty happening there as we enjoyed a coffee and pastry at Madame Brasserie overlooking the Olympic walk taking place on the streets below.  A few other food options there plus a live site and deck chairs to overlook the city.

 

The next box to tick was a bit of retail therapy for Susannah as I played the role of handbrake.  As we attacked Galleries Lafayette on Champs Élysées.  My reward for being the man bag was for  drink on the rooftop.  After a purchase or two we asked how to get up there only to be told we were at the wrong location.  Pounding along for another kilometre or two we arrived at the Haussmann version, across three buildings we went straight to the top for amazing views across Paris and the Opéra national de Paris directly across the road.  However we arrived before the lunch service was complete so I missed out on the sorely needed beer.  A but more therapy/pain and we made tracks back.

 

 

We had been recommended Rue Montorgueil as a great place to eat.  In particular, María by César (another recommendation from Di O’Sullivan).  An Italian Restaurant on a lively street, after a champagne with our Bruschetta we both had the Linguini ai Gamberetti.  A large bowl of perfectly cooked pasta with prawns, but the highlight being the seafood bisque it was served in.  Washed down with a lovely soave.

 

While all this was going on the young went down a different path at a Happy Hour with 3 and 5 Euro beers and cocktails respectively.  Happy hours are serious here usually lasting several hours starting as early as 4:00pm and finishing as late as 10:00pm.

 

 

Day 8

 

Another walk up the Montmartre Hill and found the Wall of Love, hard to get a photo of us in our active wear with a couple of Mexicans looking to get the perfect instagram shot, but we managed before our morning coffee then getting lost with a long walk back to base.

 

 

Susannah was on her culture binge and off to Museé D’orsay while I hung with the young before we made our way back to Stade du Parc des Princes for the football quarter final between Morocco and the USA.  Our fears of the dreaded USA, USA chant were quickly dismissed by the sheer volume of Morrocan supporters.  They made a coordinated racket and made the atmosphere,.  Surprisingly to us the game was a complete mismatch with Morocco at a skill level  way above the opposition.  A first half penalty put them ahead before they put the US to the sword closing out a 4-0 win.

 

Both girls were onto the ‘bottomless’ chocolate mousse at Chez Janou so off we went.  It is a no reservation restaurant and we were fortunate to get a table quickly and watch the queue grow.  Strangely we ordered an entree but so worth it for the Avocado Tartare!  Then followed up with our mains.  I indulged in the Entrecôte after the kitchen advised they were out of the special, Susannah went the prawns with aniseed rise, Gemma the most superb duck breast and Zac the snail pasta.  All magnificent before the main event.  Not quite bottomless but a huge scoop of the most decadent mousse.  Definitely a big tick from all of us!

 

We retired for the night while the young went out on the town!

 

 

Day 9

 

A massive day in Paris kicked off with the obligatory walk and coffee up the hill where preparations were underway for the cycling road race that would climb Montmartre before the final descent to the finish line.  No dilly dallying though as The Louvre beckoned!

 

 

My thoughts were impressive on the size but not so much the crowd.  It was quite sparse, then we made our way via the tradesman’s entrance and the perception was corrected.  As Damian O’Donnell responded “it does my head in”!  The buildings are works of art in themselves with the glass pyramid entry in the middle not quite fitting in but an iconic structure in its own right.

 

The enormity of the place is hard to describe, at my best effort across three massive wings there are at least 3 floors of priceless treasures from around the world dating back millennia.  The British Museum has copped flack for plundering around the globe, the French had a fair crack too!  That so much is on show for the world in a single location allows one to get such a perspective on the world we live in.

 

Our time was limited so we had a focussed plan and would catch anything we appreciated on the way through.  Our first target was La Gioconda – Musée Du Louvre – Paris (Mona Lisa) on our way seeing some classic sculptures and paintings.  The painting itself is not grand and from front on not that impressive but viewing from other angles one gets its brilliance and the accompanying notes provide much more meaning to the rest of the piece.

 

 

We then went off hunting for Napoleon’s apartment.  Turns out it was one of his ministers, a bit of the Louis’ along the way showed how furniture was done!  Then we got to the apartment, if this was the minister’s then the emporer’s own Is unimaginable.  Grand, luxurious, showy, glittering, golden are a few adjectives to describe it.  The standout being the dining capable of seating 44.

 

On our way back to see the Venus de Milo, the Louvre we past treasures from Egypt and the Roman Empire and got lost.  Venus is another artwork not seemingly impressive in isolation but the fact it is over 2000 years old with such detailed features despite being lost for so many of those years.  After 2.5 hours we had barely scratched the surface.  This place is a real monument to mankind!  But then trying to escape, attached is a mall and virtually an underground city.  Fortunately we found our way out and back to Rue Montorgueil.

 

A few stores had taken both our eyes a couple of nights earlier and therapeutic relief was delivered.  We found a cafe Petit Crème Montorgueil for our lunch.  A Cobb Salad and Tuna Sandwich doesn’t sound like much but the standout here was the service.  Mind you the service we have had right across Paris has been nothing short of exceptional.  Nothing like the stereotype we hear of at home.  Susannah did a a bit more damage to our finances before we headed back to “our” neighbourhood.  I have done my share too!

 

Straight up the hill to get a vantage point for the road race.  Slotted into a spot on the fence right outside a cafe.  We were warned about pricing exploitation for the Olympics.  At a bar less than 5 metres from the track a large beer was 3.50 Euro (just over $5).  We pay $10 normally for a schooner and reckon it would be at least $15 if the Olympics were going past.

 

We along with a group of Dutch girls were told we could not have alcohol right next to the course.  We stepped back a bit, the girls took no notice.  There was never any threat to safety so the police turned a blind eye, there is plenty of law enforcement but they are looking for genuine threats not petty indiscretions.

 

After a series of police cars, official cars and motorbikes the cyclists reach us.  It all happens in seconds but there are thousands here and many more up at Sacré Coeur.  We squeeze another beer and rose in before they pass again and in that time Remco Evenepoel had made his winning move.  Another loop to the top before turning towards the finish.

 

Susannah had left and I was on borrowed time to get back and ready for our night at the athletics.  Like the financial district Stade de France is not actually in Paris.  It it is in the Department of Saint Denis on the outskirts, a bit like VFL Park but it does have a station.  A bit unlike the MCG it is a solid 15 minute walk away.

 

We walk with the throng to reach the stadium and our seats in Row 62 directly above the 100m start, up high but a great viewing stadium.  The aesthetics of the stadium with the purple track was just so Paris!  The decathlon boys began the night with their javelin, the best throw about 6m better then the rest but he was not n the hunt for a medal.  Meanwhile the Women’s 100m semi-finals were lining up where Julian Alfred made a statement but looked like the American Sha’Carri Richardson thought she had a bit up her sleeve.

 

Meanwhile the Men’s Shot Put final was in motion followed by the Women’s Triple Jump in the field.  A winning mark was set early in both events which just put too much pressure on the opponents who did not get close to either especially as ran began to fall.  A couple of Aussies went around in the Men’s 1500m repecharge with Ollie Hoare giving it a crack before being cracked at about the 100m mark.

 

The best race of the night was undoubtedly the Mixed 4 x 400 Relay, what a great addition to the Olympics program the mixed relays  last are.  The Dutch chasing down the USA to overhaul them in the final 10 metres.  It was then time for the Blue Riband event of the night the Women’s 100m final, it’s all over in less then 11 seconds but the theatre in the build up is magnificent.  Each athlete strutting the track as if they own it.  In the end Alfred from the tiny nation of Saint Lucia owned the evening with a superb performance to hold out Sha’Carri,what a privilege to be there.  The night closed out with the decathletes exhausted from the 2 days of competition jogging around for their 1500m making the gold medal a procession for the Norwegian Markus Rooth.  We were back the trains and back Chez Bibi La Terrasse to close a big day!

 

 

Day 10

 

A more relaxed day beckoned with the Women’s Road Race coming through the ‘hood.  It was up to Sacre Coeur again for our morning walk, fans were already claiming their spots with the race due to go through in at least 7 hours time.  A sparkling day and the grand lady was looking her finest.  Our plan was to walk and catch the funicular railway back down the hill.  Alas due to the crowds for the cycling the department had it closed for the day, so we had to walk down all the steps as we headed back to our apartment.

 

 

Hardware Société Paris is an Australian owned business that kicked off in Hardware Lane, Melbourne and then opened its second location in Montmartre.  We have not yet been to the Melbourne establishment although Susannah has plans to, and does have their cookbook “No Eggs on Toast”.  We arrived at about 10:30am to find a queue had formed as they do not take reservations, the owner was arranging the groups of varying sizes and advising of when they could expect a table.  After about 15 minutes we were seated and ordering.  While the scrambled eggs did not come on toast they did come with slices of baguette, potato roesti, crème fraiche and more.  Susannah chose the Baked Eggs where there were three choices, she went with the Spanish themed option.  The food was exceptional, yet we still had envy as we eyed off dishes at neighbouring tables.

 

I made the sacrifice to head up to the course early and get a spot in the bar of choice Cafe Franceour.  A couple of pints in I spotted Susannah, quickly ordered the Rose and called “Oi” as she walked by.  It was quickly followed by by the shout of Aussie, Aussie, Aussie from the Belgian lads at the table next to me.  Like it or not, we cannot escape it.  The young joined us as we waited for the race to go past.  Grace Brown was right in contention at the first pass but the field had broken up further at the second, there would be no Golden Grace this time.  The crowd dwindled as we watched the end of the race before heading back.

 

Gemma and Zac had planned to have the classic French Picnic of baguette, cheese and charcuterie for dinner.  So we packed the goods and set off ultimately parking ourselves at the live site in the 19th arrondissement. Full of families and fans watching the screen with kids making use of whatever activaties they had, especially the water spray which we did not mind either.  A great night closed off with the Australian girls edging out France in a basketball game.

 

 

Day 11

 

Our last full day in Paris with tickets to the Beach Volleyball.  It was back the Hardware Societe to try the Fried Brioche we had spotted the day before.  Chocolate, cream, passionfruit – absolutely delicious and ideal to share.  It was then off to the Maille Mustard Store where they have a variety of flavours to try (and buy) before meeting Gemma and Zac for lunch at Boullion Chartier Restaurant.  A queue to get in where they roll you in and roll you out, but great food at incredible prices.  Loved the order being taken on the tablecloth and the bill too!

 

The young had recommended we go to the live site at Hôtel de Ville, Paris.  A great set up with a stunning back drop and the crowd roaring for another French victory.  We then hot footed it to the Eiffel Tower Stadium, our seats were perfect.  11 rows back looking straight down the middle of the court.  First up was a Men’s match between the USA and Italy and we got the USA, USA chant but not too over the top.  The American team won quickly in two sets as we were getting used to some of the vagaries of the crowd involvement.  Beach Volleyball is a party that just gets interrupted by the game.  The most fun being when a block is successful and the crowd chanting “Monster block, Monster block”

 

This time the Women from USA and Canada faced off.  The women’s game is so much better that the men, the men basically serve, set up, smash, win point – all based on power.  The women use more skill and placement and so the rallies last longer.  So while the Canadians won in two sets it went for much longer and was far more entertaining.

 

We had been here for over ten days and yet to see the Eiffel Tower lit up.  We enjoyed our final dinner together before getting ourselves a vantage point to see it glitter.  Such an iconic monument!  A farewell to Chez Bibi La Terrasse before preparing to head out of Paris in the morning.

 

Leaving Paris, Loving Lyon

 

Before departing we had to have the best croissant in Paris, or at least according to the critics.  Fortunately it was only a 1.2km walk so perfect for our morning jaunt.  Once we arrived at Mamiche (and joined the queue down the street) it was never going to be just the croissant, the jambon and cheese scrolls were too tempting and Susannah’s craving for almonds had her also getting a croissant of that flavour!

 

We returned, packed, then shared croissants before leaving our little apartment and Paris.  Dropping the young off at Gare du Nord – they were heading to Brussels, while we headed to Gare de Lyon for the train to Lyon and the next part of our adventure.  We covered the 460 odd kms in 2 hours!  Collected our gear, found a cab and we were off with our driver and her dog!

 

We did not quite reach our apartment in the cab, the driver went slightly the wrong way and had to leave us about 100m away.  Not great at the best of times with luggage, this 100m was straight up hill!  We got in to find a cosy studio which was a bit more spacious than Paris.  On a short walk to pick up essentials we found an outlet for Distillerie de Lyon, picked up a botttle of the local gin and climbed into a couple with tonic on our return home.

 

Insufficient research found us down by the river, but not in the greatest area, so a short walk to a pub where we could do the proper research.  It was off to Rue Petit David which had a range of restaurants, the one we originally picked out only served a variety of hot and cold sandwiches so we quickly decided to look elsewhere.  There were plenty of choices but we were not keen on pounding pavements, a quick look and we chose La Mere Maquerelle Bouchon Lyonnais.

 

Lyon considers itself the Gastronomic Capital of France and therefore the world.  They have some claim to that as the Michelin Star system all began here.  Not usually a fan of the Croque Monsieur but this was Lyonnais style so we split one, now a fan!  For the mains Susannah went for the local classic a fish quenelle served with the tastiest seafood bisque imaginable.  Might not have looked remarkable but was just superb.  Mine was not a local classic but the seared tuna on courgettes was equally impressive.

 

It was back up the hill for the third time in half a day, and time to rest before our first full day in Lyon.

 

Oh my Beaujolais!

 

We had a wine tour booked in the morning so our walk was to do reconnaissance on the meeting place and get coffee.  All set we headed back to Place Bellecour and met Wladimir our guide from Tasty Lyon.  He is a native of the Beaujolais region and full of insightful information.

 

It was once all part of the Burgundy region but later split off.  Quite small only 60km in length with has four distinct areas.  Green – basically forest area and wine is not made there.  Blue – the industrial, commercial and education area where they don’t make wine either.  Red – yep they make red wine there.  We were visiting Yellow where they produce red, rose, white and sparkling wines.  It is called yellow because of the distinctive golden colour of the stone from which the houses, wineries and castles in the area are built with.

 

We also learnt that Beaujolais Nouveau is one the greatest marketing scams in history.  Yes they drink it and party hard for the weekend it is released, after that they don’t touch it.  In fact, 92% of Beaujolais Nouveau is exported.  As Wladimir quoted “Keep the best, export the rest”.

 

Our first stop was for breakfast and education, next to a chapel atop a hill with stunning views across the countryside.  Breakfast was croissant and pain au chocolat of course, but washed down with a white and red from the region where Cecile our tasting expert went through how wine should be tasted.

 

Our next stop was the quaint medieval village of Oingt, Rhone-Alpes, France no idea how to write the pronunciation but sounds close to a duck quacking. Certainly highlighted the golden nature of the buildings in the area.  Great history to the town dating back to the 1200s.

 

 

 

However there was wine to be tried and we were off to meet Dominique, his family and his dog Mascot.  He would take us through the wine making process from the planting and maintenance of the vines through to the bottling process.  His family has owned and run Domaine de fond-Vieille since the mid 1700s.  This is typical of the vineyards in the Beaujolais region, while Burgundy is now mostly made up of corporates and large cooperatives.  We were treated to a white, a rose, two reds and a dessert wine plus salami, cheese and bread to complement the wines.  The majority of grapes grown in the region are Chardonnay (white) and Gamay (red) but there are no set rules as to what grapes go into a bottle of Beaujolais wine.  A very enjoyable, informative and tasty tour!

 

Now for the next tour!  The Heir had been here before and advised us to take the first river cruise we could.  That happened to be on the River Saone.  Lyon is located at the confluence of the Saone and Rhone rivers.  Just one of the reasons the the Romans established Lugdunum (the Roman name for Lyon) here in 43BC.  The tour took us past buildings of historical importance through to the modern architecture built on the reclaimed swamp land that used to exist between the rivers.

 

 

After a brief rest dinner beckoned so a quick bit of research suggested a wine bar nearby where all the reviews raved about the food.  So we headed off to La Bouteillerie.  It was barely a shopfront, but had a few table out the front and a couple inside.  Every one eats outside at this time of year!  So we took the one spare.  We were keen to try more wine from Beaujolais and advised the proprietor Christophe so, we were also keen to see the menu.  It was on a blackboard that he brought out and leant on the back of another patron’s chair!

 

We left the wine to Christophe and after a complimentary gazpacho of carrot and sweet potato we both chose the tart, sort of a quiche dish with a good dose of cheese and lardons through it.  Perfect for what we were after and the wines matched perfectly.  Once finished Christophe then brought a couple of special wines for us to try.  He was a terrific host and we would highly recommend a visit to his store.

 

Selections – Cygnes, Lions, Kangourous, Employes de quai, Bombardiers, Pouvior, Bleus, Saints, Bouledogues

 

Allez le Bleus, Allez le Freres

 

Au Reviour, Sal

 

 

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