Up the Mighty Murray! – Episode 12: Sojourn at Swan Hill
Episode 12 Sojourn at Swan Hill
It is school holidays and the mid season bye weekend in the Central Murray League, so why not join me in a sojourn at Swan Hill for a round or two of golf and a chance to dry our feet after three months on the river. We will recap on the journey so far and look at how all the footy league’s we have visited are shaping up for the run to the finals.
Postcard from Goodnight, NSW (via Swan Hill)
When riverboat captains Frances Cadell and William Randell arrived at Swan Hill, only hours apart in their accidental race up the Murray in September 1853, they were greeted with a grand ball. After a brief stay the two paddle steamer pioneers were on their way again, but in opposite directions. Cadell and the Lady Augusta took on a cargo of wool and returned to Goolwa, while Randell and the Mary Ann continued to Moama.
Swan Hill was a tiny riverside settlement at the time. Its European history dates to1836 when explorer Thomas Mitchell camped on a hill at the future site of the town, naming the locality as Swan Hill after the black swans he heard calling from a distance. By 1846 a settlement had begun around a punt crossing of the Murray. The Aboriginal history of the area extends back for at least 10 000 years. The Wati Wati and the Wemba Wemba people inhabited the mid Murray area north and south of the river between Piangil and Kerang. The Murray River is known by local indigenous people as the ‘Milloo’ in the Swan Hill area.
Swan Hill was a staging post for the ill-fated Burke and Wills expedition from Melbourne to the Gulf of Carpentaria in 1860 and the place where Charlie Grey joined the nineteen man party. Grey’s death on the return journey and the delay caused by his burial were the probable causes of the failure of the expedition party to reunite at Cooper’s Creek. A memorial plaque at Swan Hill commemorates the 150th anniversary of the Victorian Exploring Expedition led by Burke and Wills. A large Moreton Bay fig tree, believed to have been planted to commemorate the party’s visit to Swan Hill, remains today in the town.
Swan Hill’s Giant Murray Cod
Swan Hill’s big Murray Cod, known affectionately as ‘Arnold’ captures the attention of camera happy visitors to Swan Hill who stop at the photo opportunity to train their lens’ on his huge jaws. Cod fishing is a traditional recreational activity up and down the inland rivers wherever the species occurs from the upper reaches of the Darling’s tributaries in southern Queensland all the way south in NSW and the ACT to the Murray-bound rivers of central and southern Victoria and along the Murray to its mouth in South Australia.
Murray Cod (Maccullochella peelii) were once common throughout the Murray-Darling river system, but now their status is ‘vulnerable’. De-snagging operations along the rivers have resulted in a loss of habitat for the species. Altered river flow regimes together with a decline in water quality, and physical barriers to their movement, in the form of weirs, have been detrimental influences on cod breeding. In addition, Murray Cod have been impacted by commercial overfishing and competition from introduced species, particularly European carp.
The Pioneer Settlement at Swan Hill
Swan Hill’s major tourist attraction is the Pioneer Settlement situated on the banks of the Little Murray River. The Little Murray, or Marraboor, is one of the many anabranches of the Murray in the central Murray area. It is home to the PS Gem, now moored permanently in a dam at the history museum, while the PS Pyap takes tourists for cruises along the Murray and the Little Murray. In June 2023 Swan Hill celebrated 60 years since the arrival of the Gem after its voyage up river from Mildura under the tow of the PS Oscar W.
The PS Gem passing under the bridge at Swan Hill on 22 June 1963
(source: ABC Mildura-Swan Hill)
During its working years (1876-1952), the Gem was the largest passenger steamer on the river and was affectionately known as the ‘Queen of the Murray.’ In its six decades at Swan Hill the Gem has functioned as the main entrance to the Pioneer Settlement, an art gallery, a caretaker’s flat and a restaurant.
The PS Gem today
Footballers from the Central Murray League
Footballers on current AFL lists include Brent Daniels (Nyah-Nyah West United, GWS), Paddy Dow (Swan Hill, Carlton), Thomson Dow (Swan Hill, Richmond) and Josh Treacy (Cohuna, Fremantle).
Swan Hill’s football sons
The town’s two football clubs, Swan Hill (SHFC) and Tyntynder (TFC), have been a rich source of VFL/AFL and SANFL players for well over a century. Geelong has been the greatest beneficiary. Consider the following names:
Bert Worner (TFC, Geelong), Bill Ryan (SHFC, Geelong), Colin Rice (SHFC, Geelong), Eric Leech (TFC, Richmond), Fred Flanagan (SHFC, Geelong), Geoff Raines (SHFC, Richmond/Collingwood), Ken Goodland (SHFC, Geelong), Ian Borchard (SHFC, Richmond, West Adelaide), Josh Jenkins (TFC, Adelaide/Geelong), Terry Smith (TFC, Richmond/St Kilda), Tony Gilmore (SHFC, Geelong). Many others could be added to the list.
Murray Downs …A golfer’s paradise
Swan Hill boasts a championship golf course, Murray Downs, situated just over the river in NSW. Before Victoria welcomed poker machines, golf clubs along the NSW side of the Murray were a magnet for visitors wishing to spend a few days or a long weekend playing the ‘one armed bandits’ and maybe having a hit of golf. As we proceed up the Murray, look forward to having a game at river courses including Barham, Moama, Barooga, Yarrawonga and Corowa.
On the card at Murray Downs
Murray Downs Golf and Country Club claims to be the number one golf course on the Murray and one of Australia’s leading courses. Picture gently rolling river country with cavernous red sand bunkers, huge multi-level greens and immaculately couch grass-carpeted wide fairways edged in places with river red gums.
The Murray River football journey so far …
We boarded the PS Footballer at Goolwa in the Great Southern League, left the lower lakes and ventured into the River Murray League before moving through the limestone cliffs to the Murray Valley League and the Riverland. Leaving South Australia, we crossed the Millewa League mallee country and arrived at Mildura in the Sunraysia League. Steaming ahead we detoured up the Murrumbidgee to Balranald, and then stopped at Tooleybuc in the Central Murray League before our sojourn at Swan Hill.
It appears a two horse race in the Central Murray League with reigning premiers Kerang, undefeated in 2023, looking over their shoulders at Balranald who loom as a strong threat.
At the half way mark of the season in the Sunraysia League, Robinvale-Euston and Mildura look to have overtaken last year’s premiers Irymple in the race for the flag. But don’t count the ‘Swallows’ out yet.
The top four, Loxton North, Waikerie, Renmark and Barmera-Monash are well ahead of Loxton and Berri in the Riverland League. At this point, Loxton North look the goods for the big prize in September.
Three teams, Bambill (reigning premiers), Gol Gol and Cardross are the only real contenders for the Millewa League flag this year.
Sedan-Cambrai are hot favourites for the inaugural Murray Valley Football Netball League premiership. They have enjoyed several massive victories this season. Browns-Well and Murrayville should battle it out for the other spot in the grand final.
Southern Mallee have made a very promising start in their new league and will be pushing hard against likely contenders Jervois (last year’s runners-up) and reigning premiers Imperial for the remainder of the season.
McLaren Districts could go back-to-back in 2023, but Myponga-Sellicks, Willunga and Victor Harbor can’t be ignored.
(source of ladders: PlayHQ)
When we resume our river marathon we will make steam for the Golden Rivers League, followed by the Murray League, the Goulburn Valley League, the Picola and District League, the Hume League, the Ovens and Murray League, the Tallangatta and District League before our journey’s end in the Upper Murray League.
Next episode: to Moulamein in the Golden Rivers League
Read all episodes of ‘Up The Mighty Murray’ and Peter Clark’s previous series Here.
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About Peter Clark
is a lifetime Geelong supporter. Hailing from the Riverina, he is now entrenched on the NSW South Coast. His passion for footy was ignited by attending Ovens and Murray League matches in the 1960's with his father. After years of watching, playing and coaching, now it is time for some serious writing about his favourite subjects… footy, especially country footy, and cricket.

Thanks once again Peter for a most interesting and revelatory account of the great river, its towns, and the teams playing our great game up the mighty Murray.
This is an amazing journey. Bravo, Peter.
Bill Ryan, Tony Gilmore, two names from my days of barracking for Geelong.
Bill Ryan had a top season in 1971, playing centre half forward, combining with Doug Wade at full forward they contributed 150+ goals for the season. Ryan kicked two bags of 7 against North Melbourne, the week following the second bag of 7 he kicked a lazy 8 against Footscray. He left Geelong after 1972 to set up a newsagent on the Gold Coast.
We noticed Arnold the Murray Cod when we popped into Swan Hill a few weeks back. He’s a drawcard.
The Great Southern Football League includes Victor Harbour; a few miles from Swan Hill.
Keep up the good work Peter, it’s been a fine read: as have all of your works.
Glen!
Yes Glen, Victor Harbor is a long way from Swan Hill. In March this year I made a road trip up the Murray, starting at Goolwa and finishing near Corryong. Victor Harbor was on my itinerary also.
I’m pleased you are enjoying the read. We will reach the Ovens and Murray League in episode 19.
Peter