The Long and Winding Ride: Episode 2 – Bright to Tawonga: Through the Gap

 The Long and Winding Ride

 

 

Episode 2 Bright to Tawonga: Through the Gap

 

In stage 2 we venture out of the Ovens Valley and descend into the adjacent Kiewa valley cycling through the Tawonga Gap. We learn of the construction of the road through the gap and the cattlemen from the mountains and valleys.  While at Tawonga, we will unfold the history of the Tawonga Football Club, which first competed against clubs from the Ovens Valley almost 100 years ago. To top it off, we enjoy some delicious Kiewa Valley produce. This is a stage for the well-seasoned cyclist, featuring a ride that is a perfect introduction to the more challenging Alpine rides such as Mount Hotham, Falls Creek and Mount Buffalo.

 

Stage 2 Bright to Tawonga via Tawonga Gap Lookout ( 895m)

 

The 14km ride to the Tawonga Gap starts at Germantown and is a 540m elevation gain. That’s nothing for experienced cyclists, but quite a test for novices. The first section of the ride is a long gradual climb after crossing the Ovens River. At the 8km mark the road starts to narrow and wind upwards more sharply, offering views of the Ovens Valley below. After negotiating a series of hairpin bends and steep climbs the Tawonga Gap Lookout is reached. 

 

The Tawonga Gap Lookout is located midway along the road that links the Kiewa and Ovens valleys. The lookout, at an elevation of 895m, rewards travellers with panoramic views across the Kiewa Valley to majestic Mount Bogong, Victoria’s  highest peak (1986m) in the distance. The lookout is a popular picnic spot, an opportunity we will not miss. 

 

A plaque at the lookout tells the interesting story of the construction of the Bright-Tawonga Road in 1895-96. The road linking the two valleys was built after nearly 20 years of agitation by the farmers of Tawonga who wanted to get their produce to Bright. The construction of a road through The Gap would allow livestock to be driven to Bright and dairy produce transported to the railhead from the Tawonga butter factory.

 

A successful petition to the Minister of Public Works eventuated, however, severance of the Tawonga area from the Shire of Yackandandah was a condition to be met before the project could proceed. In 1895 an area of 177 sq. km was added to the Shire of Bright conditional upon the completion of the dray road within 12 months of the date of severance. Contractors using pick and shovel labour and wheelbarrows struggled with the construction, and the weather, completing the work within the prescribed time.

 

Lunch stop 

Why not stop at the lookout as we pass through the Tawonga Gap. A picnic hamper of Kiewa Valley cheeses, including the aptly named ‘Mountaineer’, the ‘Monolith’ and the ‘Razorback’ should do the job nicely. Accompanying the cheeses we can sample walnuts and a slice or two of apple from the Bright area. And to reward our hard push up to the lookout, enjoy a glass of local sparkling wine or a pint of malty ale. It’s all downhill from here!

 

Tawonga is the oldest colonial settlement in the Upper Kiewa Valley. It consists of essential services including a general store, school, recreation reserve, post office, hall and hotel. The main employer in town was the butter factory which opened in 1900 providing stimulus for dairying in the valley. 

 

Scene from The Upper Kiewa Valley at Tawonga: cattle returning from the Bogong High Plains
(source: Tawonga Remembers on Facebook)

 

Cattlemen from the Ovens, Buffalo, Kiewa and Buckland valleys once drove their herds up onto the high plains for annual summer agistment. Mountain cattlemen carried out the traditional practice for more than a century (1830s -1950s) before environmental concerns led to its discontinuation. Large herds of cattle and horses grazed the Bogong High Plains causing damage to the alpine environment. In the 1950s cattle were excluded from the highest summits including Mount Bogong, Mount Hotham and Mount Feathertop to protect water catchments and alpine vegetation. But many of the cattlemen did not go quietly. The Mountain Cattlemen’s Association of Victoria was formed in the late 1950s and over the next 50 years was involved in a protracted public battle with governments and environmental agencies to protect their leases. The cattlemen’s fight led to an agreement in 1989 to create the Alpine National Park. In return the cattlemen were granted rights to seven year renewable licenses to graze some sections of the park. In 2005 that right was terminated and now only some State Forest leases are available for cattle grazing.

 

Many of the huts in the alps built by the cattlemen remain and are used today by bushwalkers and cross country skiers. Tawonga Hut and ‘Bogong Jack’s’ Hut were two huts used by cattleman from Tawonga. ‘Bogong Jack’ was a harmless cattle duffer and horse thief in the Mount Fainter area who rounded up stock left behind when the first snows sent cattlemen and their herds back down into the Kiewa Valley. He drove the cattle over the ranges and sold them in the Gippsland markets.

 

Another hut, Wallace’s Hut on the Bogong High Plains, is one of the oldest cattlemen’s huts. It was built in 1889 by the Wallace brothers from Beechworth and used continuously until the late 1930s when their lease expired. It was purchased and used thereafter by the State Electricity Commission.

 

In 2025 the community of Tawonga is celebrating 180 years of the town’s history. Local historical societies, such as the Kiewa Valley Historical Society and the Tawonga and District Community Association, serve a useful purpose in recording and celebrating the rural history of Australia. We can learn a lot from old photographs and the memoirs of former residents published in books and on websites. Things that stand out to the reader are the challenges people faced, their resilience and the community spirit they engendered. Whether it was getting stuck on boggy roads, attending school, working on the farm or in a factory, herding cattle, lining up for a team photo, having fun in the river or wearing your Sunday best to a community event, old photos recording the moments are a treasure trove of history. 

 

Tawonga’s first recorded football game was against Yackandandah in 1893 at Tawonga. Initially Tawonga played in the Kiewa Valley Association before moving over the Gap to compete in the Bright and District FA in 1927-28, and again in 1931. The club’s colours were yellow and black. In the Bright Association years it was a challenge for footballers to get to and from Tawonga. In 1927 Tawonga footballers on their way to Harrietville got to the crest of the range dividing the Ovens and Kiewa valleys and were forced to turn back owing to snowfall. Then, in 1928, a game between Harrietville and Tawonga was forfeited by Harrietville due the condition of the road to Tawonga. 

 

Tawonga FC 1927
(source: Alpine Shire Historical Photos and Events on Facebook)

 

The photo above shows the Bombers sash going both ways. Was it to signify left footers and right footers? The range in ages of the players is clearly evident. Even an umpire got in on the grand final team photo.

 

Tawonga played two grand finals in the Bright and District FA: the 1927 decider, when they were overrun by Bright who kicked 18.23 (131) to Tawonga’s 3.8 (26); and in 1928 when they made a better fist of it, but lost to Bright again. In 1929 Tawonga moved to the Yackandandah and District League, returning for one season to the Bright League in 1931. From 1932 until 1938 Tawonga competed in the Dederang and District Association, where they won the premiership in 1934. On the cusp of the war years they were found back in the company of the Bright League where they struck gold in 1940, winning the premiership over the Myrtleford Wanderers (the ‘Cow Dungers’). 

 

In the immediate post-war years Tawonga again joined the Yack competition, winning flags in 1947 and 1952. The ‘men from the mountains’ were known for their high marking and fast play-on tactics. Tawonga (the Bombers) shifted to the Tallangatta and District FL in 1954 but soon after, in 1958, went into recess before merging with Bogong to form Bogong-Tawonga in 1964. The club merged with Dederang in 1976 and became the Dederang-Mt Beauty Football Club.

 

Next episode:

In stage 3 we return to the Ovens Valley taking the long way around, via Mount Beauty.

 

 

More from Peter Clark can be read Here.

 

 

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