Almanac Travel: On the road in Europe – not so much ‘la dolce vita’ but ‘la vita educativa’ (Part 1)

I’m hoping that this might be the first of several themed travelogues to appear on the Almanac in the next few weeks. No promises, however, because, as many of you know, travelling is a full-on occupation. This all began on Sunday when I wrote to my Catholic friends, and a few others, about our attendance at a choral Mass at Florence’s Duomo. It’s included here among other observations about churches, cathedrals and basilicas we’ve visited on our current, ongoing travels in Europe.

 

England

Kings College Chapel, Cambridge

 

 

My second visit here, the first 19 years ago when we attended Evensong. About 500 years old, it’s an example of what is called perpendicular Gothic English architecture. How’s that for a mouthful? A vast, beautiful chapel so full of history and still very much on the calendar these days with Carols at Christmas beamed around the world. I love the choir stalls, and the stained glass windows behind the main altar are a blaze of colour, story and light. These very windows survived destruction during the Oliver Cromwell era only because his troops were housed in the chapel and refused to break the windows to ensure their warmth during winter!

 

Winchester Cathedral

 

 

Ancient, historic and vast, this Norman church was saved from ruin a century ago by the heroic efforts of one man, William Walker, and oldies will remember it as the subject of a 60s pop song to boot. Nothing prepares you for the vast dimensions of Winchester Cathedral – all 151 metres of its length, let alone its bulk and gravity. Probably not as ‘pretty’ as many other churches of any kind, but imposing in its gravity and rich history. There were no sightings of the New Vaudeville Band during our visit, however Jane Austin is a permanent resident, her memory preserved with beautiful floral displays created and preserved lovingly by a group of volunteers.

 

France

Notre Dame, Dijon

 

 

About 800 years old, this version of Notre Dame (13th century Gothic) made quite an impression on us because our accommodation was right next door, so the chiming of the clock bells, as well as the church bells, constituted an enjoyable part of our days in Dijon (a fabulous place that you really should visit). What I particularly like about the interior was the gilt crown of thorns suspended from the ceiling just as one approaches the altar – really striking!

 

Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere, Lyon

 

Comparatively ‘young’ at about 200 years of age and dominating Lyon from the heights of the Vieux Lyon area, the basilica makes a statement in every way. It is truly majestic as a building in its own right, let alone as a church building. Its interior is dazzlingly opulent (making it fair game for all sorts of commentary) from its floor to the highly ornate ceiling. Getting there is the biggest challenge – it’s either one huge climb up the slope on foot or confronting the masses who use the funicular. But, in the end, the church is absolutely awesome!

 

Italy

Church of San Babila, Milan

 

 

Almost 1000 years old, this comparatively modest, Romanesque church in central Milan is a ‘poor relative’ of the Duomo (see below) but rich in history, with friezes that typify a certain era of religious art. Its interior provides a quiet respite from the heaving bustle of mammon that surrounds it.

 

Cenacola Vinciano, Milan

 

 

Technically not a church (it’s next door), we ticked off a bucket list item when we took a guided tour to see da Vinci’s ‘The Last Supper’.  Our guide was an art historian and her explanation of the intricacies and devices contained within the painting simply added to (and probably magnified) our appreciation of the genius of da Vinci. Given what happened to this building during WWII and the exposure of the painting for a prolonged period thereafter, we can be grateful that it survived. From a spiritual perspective, I was moved by the way da Vinci involved so many aspects of the night of Jesus’ betrayal. Now I’ve seen it!

 

The Duomo of Milan

 

 

The basic timeframe: work stated on the gargantuan cathedral over 600 years ago. In a sense, it’s an ongoing project. Where do you start with this utterly majestic, complex, intricate, ornate, expansive monolith? Again, we took a guided tour and spent two hours soaking up its history, construction, archeology, ongoing maintenance, etc. And we could have gone on for just as long again probably. Over the top? Certainly; a testament to ‘intricacy in excelsis’? Probably. Jaw dropping? Undoubtedly. Just one mighty experience to see, tour and appreciate. And take the time to also visit the Duomo Museum nearby to get an even greater insight into the development of the church over the centuries.

 

The monastery of San Francesco, Fiesole

 

 

Set high on the hills above Florence in the village of Fiesole is this very simple, humble, silent and deeply spiritual church of the Franciscan order dating back a good 500 years. We came here 19 years ago and were touched by its simplicity and stillness in such proximity to the heaving vigour that is Florence. Just such a beautiful contrast. On my previous visit I purchased a simple bookmark featuring the prayer of St Francis. Ever since, I have used this bookmark in my daily personal diary.

 

The Basilica of Santo Spirito, Firenze

While this church is worth a visit in its own right, it is a sculpture displayed in a side room that is the focus here. I can’t provide an image because photography is not allowed. On display is a sculpture completed by Michaelangelo when he was about eighteen years old. Made of wood, it depicts Christ on the cross, naked, with a facial expression that suggests a combination of acceptance, resignation and almost calm. It is a stunningly beautiful piece of work, perfectly proportioned, its attention to body tone testament to the sculptor’s study of corpses at the convent where he was staying at the time. That an 18-year-old could even envisage such a work let alone create it is mind-boggling! One of the absolute highlights of our trip!

 

And finally,

 

Choral Mass at the Duomo of Firenze

 

 

I wrote to my friends:

 

Greetings from Firenze! I was tempted to greet you with ‘Friends, Roman (Catholic)s and Countrymen’, but I thought it a bit too corney.

 

This morning, we attended a choral mass at Florence’s Duomo. It was presided over by the Bishop of Florence (I think that’s correct designation given his mitre and staff), with a frail and elderly cardinal in the official procession.

 

Several hundred were in attendance, obviously heavily Catholic, including many from overseas. My guess is that there were a number of non-Catholic Christians, like us, there too. At the risk of sounding unkind, it was clear that there were also quite a few ‘gawkers’ who came to see the spectacle but, perhaps not finding things to their taste, departed after less than 30 minutes.

 

It was a wonderful experience, even though we didn’t really understand many words of the Italian used. But the essential liturgy is quite similar across denominations and so we could generally follow what was happening. Interestingly, women read two of the Lessons.

 

The highlights were, in no particular order:
– the deep spirituality of the service and the apparent commitment of the faithful in attendance;
– the choir was spine-chillingly beautiful – the sopranos hit every note with accuracy and clarity, the tenors were majestic, etc. At the end of their contributions, especially when it was a powerful, high note flourish, the notes hung in the air and reverberated throughout the cathedral – achingly glorious!;
– the pipe organ, in the hands of a meister, was a mixture of subtle, powerful and sometimes thunderous, and a great complement to the choir – they never competed, but worked together wonderfully well;
– the spectacle – even a non-religious attendee would have to have been blown away by the theatre of it all. If only they understood, how meaningful it would be;
– the setting – just one of those special moments in life.

 

And that’s just thus far. Venice and Athens yet to come.

 

Observation

 

I offer these thoughts and comments as both observer and believer. We can argue until the cows come home about the rights and wrongs of church buildings, spirituality, wealth, use of resources, opiate of the masses, etc etc. In the end, we just have to accept that we’ll each come at it from a different perspective (but, hopefully, not prejudice) and never likely reach a consensus. Mutual respect, and all that, perhaps.

 

 

All photos by Anne Bitter and Ian Hauser

 

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