Almanac Travel (and footy tips): Sal’s Travel Diary 2024 – From Madrid via Portugal and Round 24 selections

 

Greetings all,

 

It’s been a while so plenty to catch with.

 

Lobbing into Lisbon

 

Another John Candy Day but at least we had a final morning in Saint Remy.  Probably the busiest in our time there as cars were streaming in for Fermia (Running of the Bulls Festival).  Off we walked in another direction before coming back into town to our ‘local’ Cafe Mamine in the main square – best coffee and also the best value.  We checked out of Le Petit Hotel and must comment on what a wonderful stay we had there.  The staff were so accomodating and being so small gave it almost a community feel among the guests, also only 140m from the main part for the town.  We had a bit of a wait for the first leg of the journey, a taxi to Avignon Central Station, from where we would take the regional train to Marseille Airport.  The train was packed for the journey but had plenty of room for luggage despite many patrons standing.  They might not move at TGV speed but reckon it hurtles along quicker than any of the services in Victoria, then on the shuttle bus to the airport and eventually aboard our Air Portugal flight on a E190 to Lisbon.  Ultimately about 9 hours door to door with a lot of waiting!

 

 

We alighted in the middle of the airport and were loaded onto buses to the terminal to then have a long walk to baggage and the exit where we were met by Rui to take us to our apartment in the historic Alfama, Lisboa, Portugal district.  Roads are cobblestoned laneways some of them with tram tracks for their older trams that run through the area.  Rui had to drop us off at the top of our laneway where we had to drag our luggage down to our apartment ONSET Alfama – Lisbon Cinema Apartments.  Just to polish us off, up two flights of stairs.  The apartment is small but well appointed and comfortable, a couple of minor challenges being the flight of stairs to the attic bedroom and a bed that might sit 20cm off the ground.

 

Our host gave us details of where we could still eat late at night and we found a restaurant where we both chose local specialities – Grilled Sardines for me and Calamari for Susannah before retiring after a long day.

 

 

 

Our morning walk took us past yet another set of Roman Ruins (gee they got around) as we kept climbing the hills.  Along the way finding supposedly the best Pastel de Nat? (Portuguese Tart) in Lisbon at Pasteleria Panaderia San Antonio, so we had to give them a try.  They were very good our challenge was to find better.  A bit further up we found Castello San Jorge built in the 1100s, still too early anything in Lisbon to be open.

 

 

 

 

The famous route 28 Lisbon Trams runs a mere 50m from our apartment where the street is so narrow it is down to a single lane with lights controlling at either end when a tram is coming the other way.  Our plan was to head west toward the markets from our stop, after trams only seeing them heading in the other direction for 25 minutes we took one of those.  Along the way we discovered the reason for the disruption with emergency services involved.  The trams are a great attraction but it doesn’t take much to screw traffic up especially when you add the huge number of tourist Tuk Tuks.  At the end of line trams were queued up to return with a queue of passengers about 200m long also.

 

 

 

 

Along the way we got see some of the beautiful architecture and mosaics within the city.  We  landed in the middle of town and the main shopping drag.  Lunch beckoned and we found Casa Brasileira – Rua Augusta, Lisbon, Portugal where we shared a Paella before ‘exploring’.  Our host had mentioned a special glove shop, it should have come as no surprise that Susannah was all over it.  Eventually we found Luvaria Ulisses – the storefront would be no more that 1.5m wide and inside less than 3m deep.  From in there they redefine service.  Elbow pads to rest on while they fit the customer with the most perfect leather gloves giving all attention to the customer in the store and those in the queue outside just need to wait.  So we did, ultimately Susannah left with a fine pair of gloves and plenty of instructions for their care.

 

My turn was the beer paddle at Brew, 23 taps with beers from Europe, the US, the UK and a couple of locals.  A pretty good set up but genuinely for the tourists with everything in English.

 

 

 

 

Lisbon sits on the north side of the Tagus River or more specifically its estuary, and we were booked on a sunset cruise and needed to get to Belem.  We got to the docks and met our crew from Palma yachts and set sail.  We started downstream to the Belém Tower.  An ornate fortress built in the 16th century at the opening of the river, defending the city.  We turned upstream as the wind filled the sail, lurching Susannah and I towards the drink – all part of sailing!.

 

 

 

 

Our next feature was a more modern sculpture headed by Henry the Navigator leading great figures from Portugal out to sea.  The only woman among them was Henry’s mum Queen Phillipa, an English princess who married the king and promoted Portuguese expeditions around the globe.

 

We then passed under the Ponte 25 Abrile, named after date of the Carnation Revolution which overthrew the dictatorship on April 25, 1974.  Originally the bridge was named after Salazar the dictator at the time of construction.  Unsurprisingly it was made by the same company that made the Bay and Golden Gate bridges in San Francisco – you could see the similarities.

 

We learnt about the devastation of the earthquake and consequential fires and tsunami in 1755.  It was on All Saints’ Day so the Catholics had candles burning in honour of the dead hence the magnitude of fires forcing the population down to the waterfront oblivious to their impending doom from the associated tsunami.  The portion of the city least affected was the current ‘old town’.  The Alfama district was at the time the Jewish quarter and as they didn’t follow the catholic rituals, these abodes did not catch fire.  It remains intact with narrow curvy streets typical of Arab designed towns, whereas the rebuilt section of the city has the wide, straight roads that we are used to.

 

We returned on the other side of the estuary where there were several buildings abandoned due to the instability of the sandstone cliffs behind them.  We then passed a popular area near the bridge where a free elevator had been installed and crowds gathered on the banks to watch the Lisbon sunset under the gaze of Santuário Nacional de Cristo Rei.  A monument inspired by Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro but deliberately left a couple metres smaller.  With that we sailed off into the sunset.

 

As mentioned traffic is nuts here as shown by our Uber driver turning illegally across traffic to collect us.  It’s not that he was ambivalent to the tooting horns behind him, he just didn’t give a rats!  We were off to Pink street for dinner a street literary painted pink.  The cocaine offering, and sheer number of tourists, as I climbed out of the Uber an indication that this probably was not where we would finish up eating – but it was fun to wander through.  Up the hill a little we found a Tapas restaurant MESON Andaluz with incredibly helpful waitress who we suspect owned the place too.  Initially we chose our own bread and truffle butter, fried calamari, Portuguese salami, Tuna two ways and goat cheese pastries.  We left the wine to the waitress who brought back a local lighter bodied red that was perfect for tapas.  Asking what we missed she returned with the gambas, prawns sizzling in oil and garlic and prepared with a nice kick of spice.  Perfect before the dessert basically a crème caramel on a plate and the obligatory Port to escort it.

 

The next morning we caught the tram down to check out the Time Out Market Lisboa market for brunch.  This is the first of the Time Out markets now found in a variety of cities where local restaurants compete to get a place in them and must maintain their quality to remain.  It was quiet on our arrival but within an hour was bustling with other tourists trying out the variety of offerings.  Meanwhile over in the produce section of the market it was much quieter as most of the stalls were closing for the day as their trade was done much earlier.

 

We then had to bustle ourselves out of there for an appointment Susannah made while I found a bar to relax in.  The recommendation we had for Barrio Do Avillez lived up to it.  Great meal, great wine, great atmosphere.

 

Our final walk in Lisbon covered the cathedral and their pantheon where they bury their Presidents, Kings and Eusebio.  Then to confirm that the best Pastel Di Nat? was the first ones we had, they were.  It was then off to collect a car and head north to Porto.  With a couple of planned stops on the way.  The first was Sintra, Portugal about 30 minutes away.  A beautiful town with palaces, gardens, castles that we never got to explore giving up after 30 minutes just trying to get a car park!  Should have done a proper day trip there.

 

We were definitely stopping at the big wave surfing town of Nazaré, Portugal.  What a scene that is too!  We eventually did get a car park here on the south side of town where  the protected beach is.  Sat down for lunch at Pangeia Restaurante for some of the best garlic prawns we have ever eaten.  The food presentation in there was amazing.  We then needed to see the legendary Praia Norte (North Beach) around the lighthouse.  Secluded and not that easy to get to but a huge expansive beach where we had to visualise the big waves that come through from October through March.  The box was ticked and it was time to get to Porto.

 

 

Having a Gaia old time in Porto

 

The drive to Porto, Portugal was pretty smooth but arriving into these old towns is harrowing with narrow cobblestoned laneways in all directions.  Just getting your bearings is difficult enough, then there is the driving!  We arrived at MO HOUSE where we checked into a very comfortable apartment.  Time here was limited so there was plenty to cram in.

 

We went on another sunset river cruise to explore and learn more about the city.  The Uber driver to the port kicked us off with the north-south rivalry particularly with regards to beer.  It is similar to Tassie, defined by beer – the Super Bock of the North and Sagres Beer of the South.  The Duoro River, Porto Portugal splits two cities Porto on the north bank and Gaia, on the south.

 

As we sailed on the river we learnt that all the famous port houses store and age their wines on the south as it does not get the harsh direct sun that hits the north and temperatures are more consistent throughout the year.  Both banks are full of people and partying!

 

After this we headed to Bilha Nova Restaurante that Mo House reception had recommended – they had no tables available, so suggested we head across the road for a drink (it happened to be craft brewery, Simplex Virtus) and then when a table became available, the waiter came and got us!  It was worth the wait – the food was terrific and plentiful.

 

Saturday morning we had a Foodie walking tour booked in.  We met Marta – our guide – who took us to some cafes, bakeries, markets, bars and restaurants.  We stopped at a deli to try some cheeses, cured meats and honey, but also learnt why bacalao (salted cod) was so important to Portugal. Great for feeding sailors on long voyages, catching the cod itself was a long voyage as they went as far as Iceland and Newfoundland  to catch it.  At the market we got to try a few interesting dishes including barnacles – yep the ones thy scrape from the boats and rocks.  Supposedly salty and good with a beer, yes on the salty too fussy on the beer side.  The bar we went to (Casa Louro) was dedicated to FC Porto with all sorts of club paraphernalia adorning the walls.  It was there that we learnt about how they flipped sardines from being a despised staple to a gourmet delicacy.

 

What was supposed to be a 5 hour tour lasted 7 hours!  It was comprehensive and fun, but a very long day!  We did the tour with 3 others, all Americans, and enjoyed the day with them.  Just to wipe us out we went searching for Livraria Lello, a famous bookshop used in the Harry Potter movies.  My navigation skills took a break so the 30 minute walk was closer to 60.  Once we arrived the queues to enter would have been at least another 45 minutes.  They charge an 8€ fee to enter but return it on a purchase, fair enough given that most are sightseers and not spending.  We decided it was all a bit much and drinking was a better option before some tapas at a nearby eatery.

 

As we were leaving Sunday, we thought we’d do another walk across the Rio Douro – Ponte D. Luís I.  The intention was to cross the top section to see the sunrise over the river.  Again navigation skills took a break and we finished up walking over the lower span and seeing where the youngsters jump off into the drink to earn some cash.  Once over, we walked along the Gaia side where all the wine stores are before making the trek up to cross the upper span, alas cloud cover so no sunrise but still spectacular.  Then it was off to the airport and Madrid.

 

The airport did provide one of the stranger scenes we have had while away.  Pets are allowed everywhere and a poodle soiled the floor in the middle of the terminal.  It’s owner took the trouble to clean the dog up but left the mess in the middle of the floor for everyone to walk over or through!  Aside from that our departure went smoothly and we were off to Spain.

 

 

 

 

Round 23 Winners in Portuguese of Course

 

Cisnes, Demônios, Gigantes, Tortas, Poder, Santos, Cães, Falcões, Azul

 

 

 

 

Really Marvellous Madrid

 

Our home in Madrid was the Hotel Preciados, conveniently located in the middle of a great city.  Attached is the Café Varela where we sat for a bite to eat and shared a magnificent prawn and avocado salad and Andalusian Calamari.  In response to my request for a beer the waiter asked if I wanted one for a man, so I had to have the large one!

 

Again we booked a tour early in our stay and so went on a Tapas Tour where Eva took us to some of the more famous Tapas locations in the city.  We met in a square surrounded by a number of famous buildings including the Hotel Reina Victoria, more commonly known as the Bullfighters Hotel.  It was where the bullfighters would stay while they were in town.  They stopped using it after a Bull won the contest one day and all decided it was bad luck to stay there, so they now use the The Wellington.

 

Our first stop took us to a place that only served prawns, Casa del Anielo.  During the civil war when bread became too hard to come by the owner headed down to the market to see what was available, which was prawns, so he flipped the business and it is now famous for their magnificent Gambas ai Ajillo.  We then hit Taurina adorned with bullfighting memorabilia including the heads of a couple of beasts.  The fare was Pimientos del Padron (padron peppers), Patatas Bravas (Brave potatoes).  No need to be brave in Spain with the food, the spices are piquant rather than hot.

 

Taberna El Fontan followed where we not only tried a range of dishes but also a dry cider poured in a rather unique manner.  Holding the bottle as high as possible and the glass as low as possible and then hopefully into the glass.  My first couple of drop hit the bucket but the majority made it in.  The dishes we tried were Queso cabrales (a soft blue cheese), Croquetas de cabrales (cheese croquettes made with the same cheese), Lacón a la gallega (Pork shoulder Galician style), Empanada de chipirón (Squid pie).

 

Our final stop was at Restaurante Los Galayos on the edge of the magnificent Plaza Mayor, Madrid, a huge public square surrounded by beautiful buildings with a variety of eateries at ground level.  Plazas are everywhere in Madrid with this one the largest.  At Los Galayos we were served these dishes – Tortilla de patata (Spanish omelette), Chistorra (Spanish sausage), Ensaladilla rusa (russian salad), Patatas revolconas (Fried iberian pork, chorizo sausace and mash potatoes), Puntillitas con huevo y pimiento (Baby squid with fried egg and grilled peppers).  The dishes were great but the highlight was the magnificent Merlot that we had also.  A great way to see and taste the city.

 

Flamenco is not really a Madrid thing it is more from the south, but there are shows everywhere.  Early on our walk Eva pointed out the oldest Flamenco show running from 1911.  it was still early by Spanish time so we took in the show.  An hour of some incredible dancing with music from some fine musicians, especially the guy playing both flute and saxophone.

 

A bit of exploration on our morning walk and came across the Palacio Real Madrid, a massive complex, we were to learn later, is larger than both Versailles and Buckingham Place. We decided we would do the Hop On/Hop off bus here as it is such a huge city and were able to plan the things we wanted to do later.  Of great interest to me was to see The Bernabau at least from the outside, it also made Susannah a Real Madrid fan.  (Actually it was being in Madrid and having watched the Beckham doco).

 

Eva also helped us out with our request for Paella and recommended one of the better places that is not just a tourist place.  We went to La Taberna de Peñalver on her advice and got a table quite quickly.  The service here was inattentive at best so getting our drinks and orders correct was a challenge, even a beer was difficult.  But you go for the food, first of all a salad with jamon was superb then we ordered the Seefood Paella which was brilliant and well worth the effort no matter the service.

 

From the bus tour we planned to visit Parque del Retiro on our walk and booked tickets for the Museo Nacional del Prado.  The Retiro is a magnificent park originally designed and built for the monarchs to enjoy but ultimately gifted to the city.  Just a great park with monuments, gardens, a large lake and a variety of kiosks dotted around.  The problem with the kiosks and most of Madrid for that matter is that nothing opens early it was after 10:00am and we still couldn’t get a coffee.  We eventually found something open on our way back.

 

The Prado was a bit further on than the park and I had mastered the Metro the day before, so off we went.  Susannah is the museum fiend and had a couple of things she wanted to see.  Rembrandt, Rafael, Rubens, Caravaggio, Velasquez and Goya were all on the list, getting around the place was a challenge in itself but we managed to see works of them all except Goya.  Strangely photography was not allowed inside but Susannah got a couple in before being told. Then we did get one of Susannah with a statue of Goya.

 

The dinner plan was to find something local with tapas and truly Madrid, we managed to locate Bodega de la Ardosa which was jam packed with locals.  When they say the locals don’t go out till 10:00 pm in Madrid, they are all in Bodega de la Ardosa.  There was not much food happening there either so we went to a restaurant we had passed on the way El Pescadores.  Some great dishes here also including grilled asparagus and onion with muhamara sauce, salmon tartare and cod fritters.  We had decided that two courses were enough at restaurants so asked for the bill, it came back with complimentary dessert.  A beautiful cake/bread topped with dolce de lecce ice cream.  We rolled back to the hotel!

 

Our final day in Madrid involved the hunt for early coffee, where we found Cafeteria Esparteros probably the only cafe open before 8:00am and also had our first churros.  Both were great the churros light and not covered in sugar.  We had a few hours before the train so we had a tour of Palacio Real.  The first part of the tour took us along the streets where we learnt the history of some of the other palaces along the way and the magnificent cathedral opposite the palace.

 

The original palace was built in the 800s, strategically placed atop a hill with views below to the north and south.  It went through a number of modifications until fire ripped through it on Christmas Eve 1734, astonishingly many works of art survived as the king had moved them to another palace.  The rebuild took place and while the current monarch does not reside there, many official functions do take place.  Plenty of other controversies among Spanish royalty as recently as 2014 with the abdication of Juan Carlos and his exile in the Middle East.  We particular liked the king who married his cousin, she went on to have 12 children none of them fathered by the king.  Then we did get to see some Goya in the palace, in a painting of one the queens he didn’t particularly like he hid the face of the devil in the dress she was wearing.

 

Then a final bite to eat with a Man Beer at Cafe Varela before we headed north to San Sebastián.

 

 

Round 24 Selections from Spain

 

Tartas, gatos, soles, halcones, leones, cisnes, perros, azules, poder

Vamos, Azules, Vamos Frailes

 

S?lud, Sal

 

More from Sal Here

 

 

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