Almanac Travel (and footy tips): Sal’s Travel Diary 2024 – Dubrovnik, and Paris Olympics / Round 21 Tips

 

Greetings All from the Olympics

 

Dashing through Dubrovnik, Croatia

 

We docked under the bridge in Dubrovnik at about 3:00pm and made our way to the Old Town, once again no cars allowed inside the gate so we had to hunt for our apartment dragging our luggage over the stone paving.  Again tricked by an apartment situated up a flight of stairs but we got there and met Zlatka our host.  A great one bedroom apartment right near the city wall.  My first task was to find a laundry, we were running out of clothes after not having any facilities on the boat.

 

Our new best friends (Jennie, Karen, Mike and Julie from our previous instalment) were staying at locations outside the wall, so we made arrangements to catch up with them at the recommended Buza Bar which sits on the rocks over the sea under the wall.  A very cool location where locals and tourists leap off the various ledges into the Adriatic below.  All sounded great till we heard they had lost their license, so the jumping was on but not the drinking therefore a new plan was needed.

 

A quick plan was devised and we picked Bura Bistro Dubrovnik as the place to open proceedings, turns out it was only 150m from our apartment, not really a surprise everything inside the walls would be 600m away at most.  it all worked as the six of us caught up at Bur? situated in a small square it shared with a couple of other restaurants.  Turns it would also close proceedings, the staff were very good and in particular our waitress, Despina.  Susannah chose the Octopus salad, which actually came with a wider range of seafood than Octopus.  I chose the Black Risotto, a Croatian specialty made with squid, cuttlefish or both and using their their ink to deliver the black rice.  Both were  excellent.  A few others from the boat walked by and joined us for more final goodbyes!  It was time for us also to say goodbye to Jennie and Karen who were off to Copenhagen the next morning.  They were great fun and we look forward to one or both of them turning up on our doorstep, or us on theirs!  We returned to the apartment and gave Zlatka’s home made cherry brandy a crack.  A bit sweet for us but still pretty smooth.

 

We kicked off the next day with the walk on the Walls of Dubrovnikl at 9:00am to beat the crowds and the heat.  We failed both!  The wall is about 2km around but takes time due to the volume of people, spectacular views, lots of narrow staircases and the bar overlooking the sea.  That bar was about 1.5km into the walk so Mike and I had our first beer for the day at about 10:30, the girls chose freshly squeezed OJ although Susannah poured hers into a glass of Prosecco!  A bit more walking and exploring inside the walls and lunch.  We finished at Bur? again by chance and Despina was in the middle of a double shift, a good move in the end as returning customers get a 20% discount.  They do this to try and get return customers who have just so much choice in the town.  It had been a big morning so a siesta was in order.

 

It was hot and humid as Jugo had rolled in – while we rested a thunderstorm broke over the town – the first rain for 24 days.  It also brought relief in the temperature as we patrolled for venues for the evening.  The walk on the wall requires a ticket and we chose the Dubrovnik Pass which also provides entry into a number of other features and museums in the town.  One of those is the Marin Drzi? House, Croatia’s most famous playwright.  Or at least it might have been his house, they are very reticent to declare anything.  Back on Korcula our guide would only commit to Marco Polo having lived there, it was only probable that he was born there.  Marin’s family went through tough times and most of his works were around relationships between people and the issues that arose from wealth and money.  His statue in the town has a very polished nose as giving it a rub brinks good luck.

 

We wanted to get off the main drag and found Soul caffe Dubrovnik down a lane way.  The owner Antony was very friendly and pretty happy with what he had set up.  As we imbibed a cellist rocked up and started playing while Antony set up a silent Buster Keaton movie to play against the inside of a white beach umbrella.  In that movie came a great quote that made us think of Jennie and Karen straight away – “Some people travel through life making friends wherever they go, while others – just travel through life”.  Mike and Julie joined us as we searched for dinner, Mike was keen to have the Buzara style seafood dish also a specialty.  A traditional stew with tomato, garlic and white wine to which fisherman would add a variety of seafood dependent on the day’s catch.  We found Kopun Restaurant at the top of their copy of the Spanish Steps, well known now as the beginning of “The Walk of Shame”.  Mike loved his Buzara while Susannah and I both went the Black Risotto.

 

We had chosen not to do too much sightseeing as we had the Game of Thrones tour in the morning.  We met our guide Alex outside the gates and with six others in our group.  She lived in the city through the filming of the series and her boyfriend worked on the show.  Alex not only had great insights into the the show but also the history of the city, which is fascinating in its own right.  For 500 years it was the City State of Ragusa a rich trading port between the north and south.  They had no army but did everything through diplomacy and a well organised spy network.  To prevent corruption in government they changed leadership every month.  Our first stop was at Fort Lovrijenac, Dubrovnik which was The Red Keep in the series and got details of where some of the key scenes were shot and then enhanced with CGI.  The fort itself was built away from the city as a ruse to keep the Venetians out.

 

It was then back inside the walls – we learnt why the town had a mix of Baroque and Renaissance architecture and no balconies.  An earthquake destroyed much of the town in the 1600s where most of the victims were underneath the collapsing balconies.  We then learnt about the Walk of Shame, it took 5 days to shoot and cost $15M USD not just for the scene but to compensate the owners and tourists that had already booked.

 

There are also some smarts in the modern leaders also, they did not charge HBO for the use of the city in Season 2, the first shot in the location.  On one condition – they had to tell the world about Dubrovnik, it has paid off incredibly well.

 

Alex recommended a restaurant outside the wall Dubravka 1836, Restaurant & Cafe.  A great setting near the water where this time Susannah tried their Mussels Buzara, while I went for the grilled calamari.  A great recommendation, we left with 10% discount to any of their restaurants in the group and a free pass to the Wine Museum.  It happened to be across the road so in we went.  Lots of information about the history of wine in the region and some details of the varieties.  Including Grk which is a female only plant so needs a male partner nearby to allow pollination.  Of course it wasn’t free as we did the obligatory tastings, all excellent wines and so fortunate we can’t bring any back as would have bought them all!

 

Mike and Julie had a booking at Panorama Restaurant and Bar, Dubrovnik that evening so we took the cable car to enjoy a drink with them before we all parted company.  Not only stunning views over the town and coastline, incredible scenery of the rugged mountain ranges inland that can’t be seen from the town.

 

We left them for dinner while we tried to find somewhere a little bit hidden away from the rest of the old town.  A particular street at the top of the hill provided that where we enjoyed a lovely meal and finished the evening with a hearty grappa or two.  The second one complimentary!  However we had to call the night early as it was a 6:15 flight the next morning to Paris.

 

We arose at 3:00am to get ready and get our 4:00am Uber to the airport, we were worried that no one would be around so booked.  Turns out that the local clubs close at 4:00am so the young were everywhere.  While we found our man, I had realised I left my carry on bag in the room and the key was unaccessible!  We got in the Uber anyway while trying to call Zlatka, half way to the airport his wife heard the phone vibrating and he answered.  Our driver turned around immediately, Zlatka jumped on his motor bike.  I had to run from the gate to the apartment where he met me with the bag.  He refused to take any offering for the trouble I had caused.  We got back in the car and headed to the airport, our driver even cancelled another booking in the process to help us.  This was just one example of how we were treated by the Croatians, so friendly and pleased to assist.  There are many reasons to go back, one of them is the people.  We got to the airport on time and it was off to the Olympics.

 

 

Our Olympic Experience Begins

 

Day 1

 

Our flights all worked perfectly to land in Paris at 11:00am, CDG was busy so bags took some time but we were quickly into a cab to our home for the next 10 days in Montmartre.  Our only issue was that the apartment would not be ready till 3:00pm.  We found the delightful Cafe Pinpin where we enjoyed coffee and quiche.  They were not licensed so we headed somewhere that was, noticed one on the way down so headed in only to be refused because their kitchen was closed.  Some very strange licensing laws here and could only serve alcohol with meals and the kitchen was closed.  We soldiered on to find somewhere for a beer and glass of rose!

 

We met Chloe and Theo our hosts, they were escaping Paris for the Olympics and we are living at their place!  A small one bedroom apartment with a fold out bed that let’s it accommodate four.  Gemma and her beau are joining us for this part of the trip.  Zac arrived first coming in from Bologna.  Gemma was coming from Stuttgart had all sorts of bother with the trains affected by the vandalism of the tracks.  By 6:30 we were all together!

 

After a long day thought best to stay local for the opening ceremony and the restaurant across the street had a big screen set up so made it easy.  Friday night in Paris had some revellers about with one group completely oblivious to the games, they even brought their own speaker and played it over the top of the commentary and music of the ceremony.  No matter though another bar 40m up the road were more than happy to host us.  A long day of travel had us close the evening down quickly.

 

Day 2

 

We woke up keen to attack the day, but the day itself was a shocker with persistent rain.  We we were in Paris for the Olympic Games, rain would not dampen our enthusiasm.  Gemma took control of what we were doing and where we were going, we duly came out of the Metro right at the Arc de triomphe de l’Étoile.  Pouring rain but people everywhere.  A quick coffee and we had to find a bar to watch the Boomers against Spain, The Bowler Paris came up as the closest.  An English style Pub dedicated to cricket with etchings of Thompson, Hadley and Imran adorning the walls, TVs dedicated the the Eng-WI test match and a barmaid that didn’t give a rats.  Anyway the Boomers got up and we split up.  The girls went to a Dior Exhibition at Dior Gallery, Zac and I went looking for a vantage point for the cycling time trials.

 

We caught the Metro and came out at about 1km from the finish, it was  not as busy as we anticipated so had a superb Chicken Baguette each and made our way closer to the finish line ending up at final turn the150m mark.  So close we were in the shot taken of Grace Brown as she hurtled towards Australia’s first gold medal of the game.  A great moment!  We planned to stay for the men’s however the rain had become heavier, it finally dampened our enthusiasm, so we made our way back.  Susannah and Gemma loved their exhibition.

 

It was time to find somewhere to watch the swimming finals!  The nearest Sports Bar to our apartment is The KOP BAR PARIS, as the name suggests it is a shrine to Liverpool FC.  The proprietor was more than happy to help and ensure we got the swimming coverage as the main French Channel was revelling in the Rugby 7s Gold Medal the locals had won.  He also cranked up AC/DC realising we were Aussies.  We celebrated the couple of Gold medals with Guinness and Rose before heading off to dinner, the food selection at The Kop was limited to charcuterie and cheese.

 

Sticking with the football theme we landed at Arsene for dinner.  Susannah and Zac enjoyed their respective steaks while Gemma and I went for the Lamb Shank Tagliatelle.  It was a whole lamb shank with the tagliatelle on the side.  All Washed down with a lovely red recommended by the waiter.  Jumped on the tram for a couple of stops to get back, a bit scary going though unlit streets.  Relief jumped in when they all came on, turned out it was just a local black out.  Closed out the day ready for our first ticketed event the next day.

 

Day 3

 

Susannah andI kicked off the day with a walk to Sacré-Cœur, Paris only 750m away but at the very top of the Montmartre Hill with spectacular views across the city.   A quick coffee and it was back to prepare the day ahead, we had tickets for the Brazil-Japan Women’s Football at Stade du Parc des Princes the home of PSG – Paris Saint-Germain.  First of all though a bit of sight seeing.

 

After a trip on the Metro towards the city, Gemma had us pounding pavements through Paris, we were in view of the Eiffel Tower but with the various restrictions and controls around the city we had to go the long way but eventually found ourselves underneath the magnificent structure.  Heading up to the top will come later, some more pounding and onto another Metro.  What a great system it is!  We checked out one of the live sites which are dotted around the city.  Better value to drink the wine over the beer but they well set up although a smaller one with only  one screen set to the main French channel as would be expected.

 

it was back to the pavements as we headed to the Football, the crowds in the streets were huge as we were shunted to the appropriate entrances.  Quite a process with ticketing and security but all understandable so everyone coped with the hold up.  We got our seats in the 6th row and level with edge of the box at one end.  The sun was belting down, the stadium is great for watch from without a bad seat in the house, but the structure of the stadium did not allow any breeze to flow through.  Plenty of rah-rah and hyping up the crowd before the game and clearly Brazil fans were in the majority.

 

The game opened slowly as the two sides tested each other out.  Brazil had more of the possession, but the Japanese looked dangerous on the burst.  They drew a handball penalty on one of those breaks.  Until then I was ambivalent about who won, but the carry on and gamesmanship from the Brazilians put me onto their opponents.  The referee didn’t help by also taking time and it all worked for them as the penalty was pretty meek and saved.  It remained scoreless to half time.

 

A completely different game after half time with Brazil taking the lead in the 56th minute.  They quickly reverted to a cynical style, wasting time and feigning injury.  It all change n the 89th minute when the referee stopped play about a minute after a skirmish in their area and awarded Japan a penalty for handball through VAR.  They converted this time.  It left 8 minutes of added time, after 6 of those minutes the ball fell to a Japanese player’s feet about 30m out who lobbed the Goalkeeper and won the game for Japan.  A great match to watch and great atmosphere.

 

While all that was going on the Matildas were in the midst of a shootout wth Zambia.  We made our way to the local Australian hangout Cafe Oz Australian Bar hoping it might be on their screens – no such luck.  But they did have VB for Zac and Coopers Sparkling for me, unfortunately for the girls the Rose was a crappy Australian variety.  The Matildas were down 5-3 when Zac got the Nine coverage on his phone via VPN as many other groups in the bar were.  As they scored their sixth to win the various groups cheered.  With that we left and walked through a very busy area full of bars and restaurants to find our dinner.

 

We sat down a restaurant with a very congenial waiter who turned out to be the owner.  As we enjoyed our meal a group of street performers set up and went through a very entertaining routine.  More pavement pounding to the Metro and back to Montmartre.  At the end of the day I had clocked up over 17km.

 

Day 4

 

 

After the regular morning routine we had to get ready quickly for our trip to Roland Garros – Court Central P.Chatrier!  Another trip on the Metro under Gemma’s guidance and then being corralled to the gates to the historic venue.  Our tickets were for games with the top seeds in both women and men taking on unseeded players.  Just that the unseeded man was Rafael Nadal!  He was taking on Novak Djokovic in a second round encounter.

 

The girls kicked it off and Iga Swiatek showed why she is rated number one as she easily disposed of the local Diane Parry.  The men looked like going the same way with Novak taking the opening set 6-1 and then 4-0 in the second.  Suddenly Rafa found his game and the crowd come to life, there was no doubt who their favourite was.  He levelled up at 4-4 and Philippe Chartriers was going off.  The Joker has played the villain for many years and spoiled the party again and win the match 6-1 6-4.  A ladies doubles match followed but another hot day in the sun and siesta time again.

 

Set off to dinner locally and found l’Ascencion restaurant with a screen to see the swimming.  The basic meals here are premium dishes at home.  Perhaps Zac’s pork sausage not quite but the cheese mash and the way it was served was.  Susannah and I went the Salmon Tartare, Susannah somewhat horrified it came with chips.  It’s a pub meal here and everything comes with chips although we did notice an entire version without.  A bottle of dry white wine and a couple of beers later we set for home for an early night with an early start the next day.

 

Day 5

 

 

The six o’clock alarm did ring as we had a big day ahead.  Gemma, Zac and I were heading to Lille, France for the Basketball, a men’s doubleheader Greece vs Spain, then Australia vs Canada.  Susannah was fulfilling a dream and off to Palace de Versailles, Paris France.

 

We arrived in Lille by train, have I mentioned how great the trains are in Europe.  Puts us to shame.  The shuttle takes us to the local football stadium Decathlon Arena Stade Pierre Mauroy.  It has been converted into a basketball stadium using 1/2 the field.  We climb to our seats in row 62 yet still a great view.  Spain and Greece put on a great show with the Spanish team proving too strong for the individual brilliance of Giannis Antetokounmpo and his support cast.  Patrons filed out after the game, and so we expected to improve our view.  No such luck it was packed again for the next match.  The Aussies began well to lead at the break, however Canada made the adjustments needed to get the game on their terms while the Aussies had no answer to Alexander-Walker.

 

While all this was going Susannah was having a grand time exploring Versailles and then bumped into an old friend Max Goonan, who is over doing some reconnaissance work for Brisbane.  We had a couple of hours to explore the beautiful town of Lille before the return to Paris, whilst Susannah and Max caught up over a rose or two.

 

Staying local for dinner I finally tried the Steak Tartare, just fabulous.  Then to La Terrasse across the road from our apartment.  The young retired while Susannah and I stayed on, I was waiting for the go ahead to speak to Daniel Hartford from RSN Racing & Sport 927am Daniel Hartford Melbourne breakfast radio.  We clearly had become favourites in the bar as they delivered us free shots.  I did the interview and then closed out the bill when they poured me another beer and wine for Susannah.

Day Six

 

Another train trip this time, not for an event but to Reims, France.  A quick comfortable trip to the heart of Champagne country.  Our first stop, after coffee, was to Champagne Pommery where we had a tour booked.  Eloise took us through 1km of the 18km of caves and tunnels of the facility and went through the champagne making process.  All the nooks and crannies have names of cities round the world which were added as they established those markets.  Only Miami made it from the US and there are no Australian cities, the way to have them added these days is for a dignitary to visit and they will put them in as happened for Dakar and Colombo recently.  Would an Aussie PM get away with a visit to a champagne house?

 

 

We completed the tour with a tasting of the product, which we approved of and appropriately bought a couple of bottles about $55 each.  A hunt for a quick lunch and then perusing the town.  A variety of the champagne houses have some sort of tasting facility within the town. Our plan was for for a few tastings of champagnes not readily available at home before the train back.  With lunch we had a bottle of Champagne Henri Abelé Brut before visiting Champagne Pol Couronne, they had tasting options but we chose the sabrage.  Where we shared the bottle that I opened with a sword cracking the top of the bottle off.  Great fun and excellent champagne.  Our next from Bruyen, a bit more standard operation but the bubbles were good, then a bit more trundling around this beautiful town.

 

A quiet night before our trip up the Eiffel Tower in the morning.

 

Sélections – Les bouledogues, Soleils, Kangourous, Chats, Bleus, Cygnes, Géants, Employés de quai, Lions

 

Allez les Bleus, allez les Frères,

 

Salut, Sal

 

More from Sal Here

 

 

To return to the www.footyalmanac.com.au  home page click HERE

 

Our writers are independent contributors. The opinions expressed in their articles are their own. They are not the views, nor do they reflect the views, of Malarkey Publications.

 

Do you enjoy the Almanac concept?
And want to ensure it continues in its current form, and better? To help keep things ticking over please consider making your own contribution.

 

Become an Almanac (annual) member – CLICK HERE