Almanac Life: Winter in Bicheno

 

It’s 7am and the sun, having risen from the Pacific Ocean horizon, bursts into our bedroom window, rendering me like an ant under a magnifying glass.

 

Squinting to look out the window, all you can see is azure water that is glistening like millions of sparklers on the surface of the water.

 

It’s Bicheno on Tasmania’s spectacular east coast, approximately two hours from both the state’s main centres, Launceston and Hobart.

 

As absurd as it sounds, the sun is hotter down here and the light is clearer than the mainland. The locals reckon it’s the lack of pollution and a diminished ozone layer. New Zealanders will say the same thing about their homeland.

 

My older brother Bruce has been retired here for nearly twenty years and is a keen photographer. He believes that on a clear day you can see the Hazards of Freycinet National Park from the top of Mt Wellington, some two hours drive away.

 

As far as temperature goes, having lived in Hobart for four years, I never thought Tassie was too cold even when Mt Wellington harboured snow on its peak. I’ve found Canberra and our beloved Ballarat much chillier.

 

We are housesitting a property owned by my niece Suzanne and her husband Paul whilst they celebrate their 25^th wedding anniversary in South America.

 

Tasmanians would call the house a ‘shack’ or holiday home but despite it being a bit tired, Paul and Suzanne have revitalised it into a charming home where they successfully raised two kids and various animals.

 

Like their owners who were married in Zanzibar whilst travelling all those years ago, the house is quirky. There are a multitude of memories and idiosyncratic items all over the five acres. It also sports an incredible view, perched over stunning white sand beaches and surf.

 

 

We took three weeks off and headed down to look after ‘Donald’ the dog, a cat named ‘The Murderer’ and two donkeys ‘Moby’ and ‘Little Dick’.

 

Donald or Donsey is an adorable ten year old rescue, who resembles a combination of a dachshund, a wombat and a fruit bat! It will be hard to say goodbye to him when we head home.

 

 

Only a half an hour south from Bicheno is the World Heritage Listed Freycinet National Park. It’s truly a beautiful place to hike with trails to suit all levels of fitness. We chose to walk to the lookout over Wineglass Bay then took the track down to the beach and return. It takes approx. two hours from the carpark and back.

 

 

You can pop into Coles Bay on the way back and take in a superb view of The Hazards. The ochre colouring means they wouldn’t look out of place in The Kimberley or Arizona.

 

 

Some of the gigantic boulders sit precariously on other monoliths and you can only hope the local Parks and Wildlife engineers have done their homework.

 

Other smaller boulders reminded me of animals in their shapes. Here is a sperm whale sleeping, a cane toad and a giant mushroom which is what I was possibly munching on at the time. Just kidding of course.

 

Swimming this time of year without a wetsuit is only for the crazy brave and on Wineglass Bay there was a young bloke who got carried away with the pristine nature and purity of the water.

 

He stripped off down to his jocks and dived in like Trevor Hendy despite his girlfriend’s distraught cries. He didn’t last long and after quickly alighting back to the sand I suggested to him that his genitalia were now floating boldly on their way to New Zealand. Good on him though. Legendary swimmer Shane Gould lives in Bicheno and swims with some local ‘ice-bergers’ everyday, wearing wetsuits mind you.

 

Winter holidays aren’t for everyone however if you’re like us and enjoy the freedom and peace of no crowds, Tassie’s East Coast is a very special part of the world.

 

Long walks on deserted beaches, animals to care for, an open fire, books, and Kayo for the footy even if it means watching the Saints self-destruct, that’ll do.

 

 

 

 

More from Ian Wilson can be read Here.

 

 

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