Almanac Travel: On the road in Europe – not so much ‘la dolce vita’ but ‘la vita educativa’ (Part 2)

In Part 1 of this series, I wrote about churches, cathedrals and basilicas in England, France and Italy. At some stage there will be, hopefully, a supplement to that theme to cover the later stages of our travels. Part 2 looks at an eclectic range of cultural activities and observations, using ‘cultural’ in a broad sense – you’ll get my drift as you read.

 

Cambridge

 

 

We took the train to Cambridge for a day because, as ex-History teachers, we wanted to learn more about this esteemed city. We took a two-hour guided walking tour with an experienced local who led us around the streets with a particular focus on the background history of the city, its development over the centuries and, in particular, the evolution of the university colleges under varying forms of government and their attitudes. Fascinating stuff (if that’s your thing). Why King’s College chapel’s windows survived Oliver Cromwell is a good case in point. We also walked past the storefront for Cambridge University Press, the oldest publishing house in the UK.

London

 

 

We always like to take in a stage show when we’re in London and this time it was ‘The Great Gatsby’ at The Coliseum Theatre. Staying true to Fitzgerald’s storyline, it was a visually enjoyable production with cleverly designed sets and a virtual background to reflect the coastal backdrop to Gatsby’s mansion, as well as the gasoline station en route to town and the hotel room in the city. The principals were solid in their performances but the highlights all revolved around the dynamic ensemble dance pieces that were full of energy, life, vigour and entertainment. Well worth the visit, so go and see it if it comes to Australia (or if you happen to be in London).

 

I spent a day at Lord’s taking in a modest Second Division county match between Middlesex and Leicestershire. My main purpose was to go to Lord’s again (my third visit, I think) to soak up the atmosphere and pay homage to the home of cricket. I spent time sitting at both ends of the ground to get as good a visual appreciation as I could.  New grandstands have been added at the Nursery end on either side of the commentary capsule since I was last there (2019) and their design helps to blend the capsule into that end of the ground. The extent of ‘the slope’ never ceases to amaze me. Best player on the day was the former Australian Test batsman Peter Handscomb who skilfully negotiated a tricky, up and down pitch to score 87 on the way to leading the visitors to a strong win the following day.

 

Paris

 

 

The Luxembourg Gardens are visually beautiful and, as my friend Noel says, a wonderful place ‘to sit and ponder’. Agreed, especially on a sunny Friday afternoon with a milling crowd going about life. Only the aperitif was missing!

 

Beaune

 

 

Just south of Dijon is the town of Beaune, best known for the local wine industry and its weekend markets. But the real highlight is the Hôtel-Dieu, a hospice built by Nicholas Rolin in the mid-15th century to serve the poor of the community. It maintained a role along those lines until 1971. Absolutely brilliant in its concept and totally humbling in its execution. Research it, please, and see how the power of one can work for the good of many. Perhaps some of our present day mega-billionaires could take a leaf out of Rolin’s book!

 

Dijon

The Musée des Beaux-Arts is one of the oldest museums in France, situated in the former palace of the Dukes of Burgundy. We spent quite a while savouring its various collections, especially its medieval section. It also has one of the better museum shops we’ve seen. Well worth a visit.

 

Lyon

 

 

In Lyon it’s all about the architecture, best seen overall via that staple of many of the larger cities, the Hop on Hop off bus! The Musée des Confluences (above) is a great example of creative form. The Euronews centre, the ‘Orange Cube’ and the Tour Ycone are other examples of standout modernity to balance the more historical examples like La Palaise de Justice and the Palaise de la Bourse de Lyon. We’re crying out for some of this creativity in Australia.

 

Milan

 

 

Milan’s canal area in the Navigli district is a contrast to the bustling city centre. Apparently it has a real buzz in the evening with an energetic young crowd. Just off the main canal we stumbled across an amazing photo shop that specialises in black and white photographs that depict Italian history over the last 100+ years. It is an illuminating, astounding collection of images of everything ranging from architecture to history to popular culture to sport and all points in between. Utterly absorbing for the History teacher in me, yet among the most striking photos were those of the opera singer Maria Callas – captivating – and Franco Baresi, the AC Milan player – a study in determination. I’m only sorry I can’t give you its exact location. I’m pretty sure it’s simply called ‘The Photo Shop’.

 

Florence

 

 

If it’s Florence, it’s the Uffizzi! Simply mammoth, a seemingly endless succession of magnificent masterpieces that end in total sensory overload. But what a way to be filled beyond endurance. Quite simply, you have to see it all (if that’s possible) to believe it. Words do not do it justice. I was particularly tickled, in this centre of predominantly Catholic influence, to come across a painting of none other than Martin Luther and his wife Katherina! Juxtaposition, perhaps? Or is it oxymoron?

 

Fiesole

 

 

A village high above Florence, Fiesole hosts two special places, a monastery (which will appear in a later edition of this series) and a Roman amphitheatre. A lot of work has gone into preserving and presenting this precinct, in particular making it fully accessible in spite of the natural hilly terrain. Spectacular in itself and commanding equally spectacular views.

 

Lucca

The home town of Puccini. Every night of the year, the Basilica Di San Giovanni hosts an hour-long concert to honour the composer’s legacy. We attended an evening featuring soprano Rosa Perez Suarez, tenor Giovanni Cervelli and pianist Diego Fiorini performing 10 Puccini compositions. Suarez was all primadonna in fiery red with a range to test the top of the scales. Cervelli was resounding/profundo in the vaulted setting and his performance of Nessun dorma was full of bravado and confidence, tear inducing, and won sustained applause from all, including Suarez. As an accompanist, Fiorini was perfect, there but not there as required, so as not to detract from the singers. When he got his 15 minutes to play solo, he caressed the keyboard with touch, all the way from pianissimo to fortissimo. A short but beautiful concert that will linger in my memory.

 

Pisa

 

 

Pisa is vastly underrated. Its colonnaded shopping precinct is delightful but its tower/cathedral/baptistry/camposanto complex just has to be one of the great precincts of the world. Stunningly presented, magnificent in its architecture, simply beautiful to see, and, to top it off, the wonder of the tower. To say that, in all, it’s mind blowing is to barely do it justice! Put it on your bucket list.

 

That’s an even dozen, so perhaps enough for now. More to come from Venice and Greece later on.

 

 

All photos by Anne Bitter and Ian Hauser.

 

Part 1 can be read Here

 

More from Ian Hauser Here

 

 

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